Minnesota and Dacotah | Page 9

that St.
Paul is not on the west side of the Mississippi, but on the east. Though
it is rather too elevated and rough in its natural state to have been
coveted for a farm, it is yet just such a spot as a pioneer would like to
plant himself upon, that he might stand in his door and have a broad
and beautiful view towards the south and west. And when the
speculator came he saw that it was at the head of navigation of what be
thought was the Upper Mississippi, but which in reality is only the
Middle Mississippi. Then stores were put up, small and rude, and trade
began to increase with settlers and hunters of furs. Then came the
organization of the territory, and the location of the capital here, so that
St. Paul began to thrive still more from the crumbs which fell from the
government table, as also by that flood of emigration which nothing
except the Rocky Mountains has ever stayed from entering a new
territory. And now it has passed its doubtful era. It has passed from its
wooden to its brick age. Before men are certain of the success of a town,
they erect one story pine shops; but when its success appears certain,
they build high blocks of brick or granite stores. So now it is common

to see four and five story brick or stone buildings going up in St. Paul.
I believe this city numbers at present about 10,000 population. It is
destined to increase for a few years still more rapidly than it has
heretofore. But that it will be a second Chicago is what I do not expect.
It would certainly seem that the high prices demanded for building lots
must retard the progress of the place; but I am told the prices have
always been as high in proportion to the business and number of
population. $500 and upwards is asked for a decent building lot in
remote parts of the town.
I have had an agreeable stroll down upon the bluff, south-east from the
city, and near the elegant mansion of Mr. Dayton. The first engraving
of St. Paul was made from a view taken at that point. As I stood
looking at the city, I recalled the picture in Mr. Bond's work, and
contrasted its present with the appearance it had three or four years ago.
What a change! Three or four steamers were lying at the levee; steam
and smoke were shooting forth from the chimneys of numerous
manufactories; a ferry was plying the Mississippi, transporting teams
and people; church steeples and domes and great warehouses stood in
places which were vacant as if but yesterday; busy streets had been
built and peopled; rows of splendid dwellings and villas, adorned with
delightful terraces and gardens, had been erected. I went out on Sunday
morning too, and the view was none the less pleasant. Business was
silent; but the church bells were ringing out their sweet and solemn
melody, and the mellow sunlight of autumn glittered on the bright roofs
and walls in the city. The whole scene revealed the glorious image of
that ever advancing civilization which springs from well rewarded
labor and general intelligence.
Like all new and growing places in the west, St. Paul has its whiskey
shops, its dusty and dirty streets, its up and down sidewalks, and its
never-ceasing whirl of business. Yet it has its churches, well filled; its
spacious school-houses; its daily newspapers; and well-adorned
mansions. There are many cottages and gardens situated on the most
elevated part of the city, north and west, which would not suffer by a
comparison with those cheerful and elegant residences so numerous for

six to ten miles around Boston. From the parlors of these homes one
may look down upon the city and upon the smooth bosom of the river.
In the streets, too, you see much evidence of opulence and luxury, in
the shape of handsome carriages, which are set out to advantage by a
first-rate quality of horses.
One element of the success of this city is the public spirit of its leading
business men. They have put their hands deep into their pockets to
improve and advance the place. In all their rivalry there is an amicable
feeling and boundless liberality. They help him that tries to help
himself, and help each other in a way that will help them all together;
and such kind of enterprises produces grand results. Why, here is a new
hotel (the Fuller House) at which I stop, which is surpassed but by very
few hotels in the country. It is a first-class house, built of brick, five
stories high, and of much architectural beauty. The building itself cost
upwards of $100,000,