London to Ladysmith via Pretoria | Page 3

glittering birds that, flushed
by the sudden approach of the vessel, skim away over the waters and
turn in the cover of a white-topped wave. On another we crossed the
Equator. Neptune and his consort boarded us near the forecastle and
paraded round the ship in state. Never have I seen such a draggle-tailed
divinity. An important feature in the ritual which he prescribes is the
shaving and ducking of all who have not passed the line before. But our
attitude was strictly Erastian, and the demigod retired discomfited to
the second class, where from the sounds which arose he seemed to find
more punctilious votaries. On the 23rd we sighted a sail--or rather the
smoke of another steamer. As the comparatively speedy 'Dunottar
Castle' overtook the stranger everybody's interest was aroused. Under
the scrutiny of many brand-new telescopes and field glasses--for all
want to see as much of a war as possible--she developed into the
'Nineveh,' hired transport carrying the Australian Lancers to the Cape.
Signals were exchanged. The vessels drew together, and after an hour's
steaming we passed her almost within speaking distance. The General
went up to the bridge. The Lancers crowded the bulwarks and rigging
of the 'Nineveh' and one of them waggled a flag violently. An officer
on our ship replied with a pocket-handkerchief. The Australians asked

questions: 'Is Sir Redvers Buller on board?' The answer 'Yes' was
signalled back, and immediately the Lancers gave three tremendous
cheers, waving their broad-brimmed hats and gesticulating with energy
while the steam siren emitted a frantic whoop of salutation. Then the
speed of the larger vessel told, and we drew ahead of the transport until
her continued cheers died away. She signalled again: 'What won the
Cesarewitch?' But the distance was now too great for us to learn
whether the answer gave satisfaction or not.
We have a party of cinematographers on board, and when they found
that we were going to speak the 'Nineveh' they bustled about preparing
their apparatus. But the cumbrous appliances took too long to set up,
and, to the bitter disappointment of the artists, the chance of making a
moving picture was lost for ever; and indeed it was a great pity,
because the long green transport, pitching in the sea, now burying her
bows in foam, now showing the red paint of her bottom, her decks
crowded with the active brown figures of the soldiers, her halyards
bright with signal flags, was a scene well worth recording even if it had
not been the greeting given in mid-ocean to the commander of the army
by the warlike contingent which the need or convenience of the Empire
had drawn from the Antipodes.
South of the line the weather cools rapidly, and various theories are
advanced to explain the swift change. According to some, it is due to
the masses of ice at the Antarctic Pole; others contend that it is because
we are further from the land. But whatever the cause may be, the fall in
temperature produces a rise in spirits, and under greyer skies everyone
develops activity. The consequence of this is the organisation of
athletic sports. A committee is appointed. Sir Redvers Buller becomes
President. A two days' meeting is arranged, and on successive
afternoons the more energetic passengers race violently to and fro on
the decks, belabour each other with bolsters, or tumble into unforeseen
troughs of water to their huge contentment and the diversion of the rest.
Occasionally there are light gusts of controversy. It is Sunday. The
parson proposes to read the service. The captain objects. He insists on
the maintenance of naval supremacy. On board ship, 'or at any rate on

board this ship,' no one but the captain reads the service. The minister,
a worthy Irishman, abandons the dispute--not without regret. 'Any other
clergyman of the Church of England,' he observes with warmth, 'would
have told the captain to go to Hell.'
Then there is to be a fancy dress ball. Opinions are divided. On the one
part it is urged that fancy dress balls are healthy and amusing. On the
other, that they are exceedingly tiresome. The discussion is prolonged.
In the end the objectors are overruled--still objecting. Such are the
politics of the State.
Inoculation against enteric fever proceeds daily. The doctors lecture in
the saloon. One injection of serum protects; a second secures the
subject against attacks. Wonderful statistics are quoted in support of the
experiment. Nearly everyone is convinced. The operations take place
forthwith, and the next day sees haggard forms crawling about the deck
in extreme discomfort and high fever. The day after, however, all have
recovered and rise gloriously immune. Others, like myself,
remembering that we still stand only on the threshold of pathology,
remain unconvinced, resolved to trust to 'health