Lippincotts Magazine, Vol. 22, September, 1878

Lippincott's Magazine, Vol. 22,
September,
by Various

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September,
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Title: Lippincott's Magazine, Vol. 22, September, 1878
Author: Various
Release Date: August 5, 2007 [EBook #22250]
Language: English
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LIPPINCOTT'S MAGAZINE

OF
POPULAR LITERATURE AND SCIENCE.
SEPTEMBER, 1878.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by J. B.
LIPPINCOTT & CO., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at
Washington.
Transcriber's note: Minor typos have been corrected and footnotes
moved to the end of the article.

OUR VISIT TO THE DESERT.
[Illustration: CONSTANTINE.]
One of the most interesting and amusing episodes in our many
Mediterranean and North African wanderings was a visit to the Sahara.
Although we penetrated but a short distance into the Great Desert, we
were there introduced to aspects of Nature and to phases of life wholly
new and strange to us.
We had been spending the winter in Algiers, and were unwilling to
return to Europe without seeing something more of the African
continent. When, therefore, the sunny winter gave place to still more
sunny spring, we set out upon our travels--first, eastward by sea to
Philippeville, and then southward to the desert.
The French colony of Algeria, as every one knows, stretches along the
African coast from Morocco to Tunis, and from the Mediterranean
southward to the desert. It is divided into three provinces--Oran,
Algiers and Constantine, the central one being the most important and
that from which the whole country takes its name. From either of these
provinces it is possible to penetrate inland to the Sahara, but this is
done most easily from the eastern settlement, Constantine. We
therefore made choice of this route, and on a bright morning early in

April started from Algiers for Philippeville. The voyage along the coast
affords some glimpses of fine scenery. The Bay of Bougie especially,
surrounded as it is by lofty mountains, part of the Atlas range, is
extremely picturesque. As the steamers, however, only remain a few
hours at each of the stopping-places, there is scarcely time fully to
enjoy the varied and charming views. It seemed to us as if a vast
diorama had passed before us, leaving on the mind not an indelible
picture, but a mere shadowy outline of headlands and bays, rocky
promontories and sunny sloping shores. With the exception of the port
of Algiers, there is, properly speaking, no harbor on this part of the
African coast: there are only open roadsteads, where, exposed to the
full roll of the sea, vessels ride uncomfortably at anchor. The journey is
in consequence rather trying: nevertheless, we had not long reached
terra firma before we acknowledged ourselves amply compensated for
the fatigues and little unpleasant accompaniments of the sea-voyage.
Philippeville offers to the traveller no great attractions. Its situation is
pretty, and it possesses some Roman remains, the examination of which
may occupy pleasantly and profitably enough the unavoidable interval
between the landing and the start for the South. After resting but one
night, we set out for Constantine, the capital of the province of that
name. There is nothing whatever of interest between the sea and the
city--nothing till you arrive within sight of Constantine itself. Then,
indeed, when from the plain below you get your first view of the town,
perched like an eagle's nest upon its rocky height, you can at once
realize the appropriateness of its singular name--"the City in the Air." It
is so high above you it seems midway between earth and heaven. Its
situation is indeed unique and most strangely picturesque. Security
must have been the chief motive for the selection of such a site, and
certainly few cities present more formidable barriers to the advance of a
foe. The plateau of rock upon which the town is built forms a kind of
peninsula, inaccessible on all sides except one, and there the ascent is
long and steep, as we found to our cost each time we descended to the
level of the valley. This plateau is joined to the rest of the table-land as
by an isthmus: at all other points it is surrounded by a profound chasm,
through which flows the river Roumel--a chasm so deep and narrow
that it is only when quite near it you become aware of its existence. For

the sake