Life in Morocco and Glimpses Beyond | Page 2

great for an enjoyable trip. The simplest way of
accomplishing this is by one of Messrs. Forwood's regular steamers
from London, calling at most of the Morocco ports and returning by the
Canaries, the tour occupying about a month, though it may be broken
and resumed at any point. Tangier may be reached direct from
Liverpool by the Papayanni Line, or indirectly viâ Gibraltar,
subsequent movements being decided by weather and local sailings.
British consular officials, missionaries, and merchants will be found at

the various ports, who always welcome considerate strangers.
Comparatively few, even of the ever-increasing number of visitors who
year after year bring this only remaining independent Barbary State
within the scope of their pilgrimage, are aware of the interest with
which it teems for the scientist, the explorer, the historian, and students
of human nature in general. One needs to dive beneath the surface, to
live on the spot in touch with the people, to fathom the real Morocco,
and in this it is doubtful whether any foreigners not connected by ties
of creed or marriage ever completely succeed. What can be done short
of this the writer attempted to do, mingling with the people as one of
themselves whenever this was possible. Inspired by the example of
Lane in his description of the "Modern Egyptians," he essayed to do as
much for the Moors, and during eighteen years he laboured to that end.
The present volume gathers together from many quarters sketches
drawn under those circumstances, supplemented by a resumé of recent
events and the political outlook, together with three chapters--viii., xi.,
and xiv.--contributed by his wife, whose assistance throughout its
preparation he has once more to acknowledge with pleasure. To many
correspondents in Morocco he is also indebted for much valuable
up-to-date information on current affairs, but as most for various
reasons prefer to remain unmentioned, it would be invidious to name
any. For most of the illustrations, too, he desires to express his hearty
thanks to the gentlemen who have permitted him to reproduce their
photographs.
Much of the material used has already appeared in more fugitive form
in the Times of Morocco, the London Quarterly Review, the Forum, the
Westminster Review, Harper's Magazine, the Humanitarian, the
Gentleman's Magazine, the Independent (New York), the Modern
Church, the Jewish Chronicle, Good Health, the Medical Missionary,
the Pall Mall Gazette, the Westminster Gazette, the Outlook, etc., while
Chapters ix., xix., and xxv. to xxix. have been extracted from a still
unpublished picture of Moorish country life, "Sons of Ishmael."
B.M.

HAMPSTEAD, November 1905.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
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PART I
CHAPTER PAGE
I. RETROSPECTIVE 1
II. THE PRESENT DAY 14
III. BEHIND THE SCENES 36
IV. THE BERBER RACE 47
V. THE WANDERING ARAB 57
VI. CITY LIFE 63
VII. THE WOMEN-FOLK 71
VIII. SOCIAL VISITS 82
IX. A COUNTRY WEDDING 88
X. THE BAIRNS 94
XI. "DINING OUT" 102
XII. DOMESTIC ECONOMY 107

XIII. THE NATIVE "MERCHANT" 113
XIV. SHOPPING 118
XV. A SUNDAY MARKET 125
XVI. PLAY-TIME 133
XVII. THE STORY-TELLER 138
XVIII. SNAKE-CHARMING 151
XIX. IN A MOORISH CAFÉ 159
XX. THE MEDICINE-MAN 166
XXI. THE HUMAN MART 179
XXII. A SLAVE-GIRL'S STORY 185
XXIII. THE PILGRIM CAMP 191
XXIV. RETURNING HOME 201

PART II
XXV. DIPLOMACY IN MOROCCO 205
XXVI. PRISONERS AND CAPTIVES 233
XXVII. THE PROTECTION SYSTEM 242
XXVIII. JUSTICE FOR THE JEW 252
XXIX. CIVIL WAR IN MOROCCO 261
XXX. THE POLITICAL SITUATION 267

XXXI. FRANCE IN MOROCCO 292

PART III
XXXII. ALGERIA VIEWED FROM MOROCCO 307
XXXIII. TUNISIA VIEWED FROM MOROCCO 318
XXXIV. TRIPOLI VIEWED FROM MOROCCO 326
XXXV. FOOT-PRINTS OF THE MOORS IN SPAIN 332
APPENDIX
"MOROCCO NEWS" 381
INDEX 395

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
TO FACE PAGE
A MOORISH THOROUGHFARE Frontispiece
GATE OF THE SEVEN VIRGINS, SALLI 1
CROSSING A MOROCCO RIVER 26
A BERBER VILLAGE IN THE ATLAS 47
AN ARAB TENT IN MOROCCO 57
ROOFS OF TANGIER FROM THE BRITISH CONSULATE 71
A MOORISH CARAVAN 91

FRUIT-SELLERS 107
A TUNISIAN SHOPKEEPER 118
THE SUNDAY MARKET, TANGIER 128
GROUP AROUND PERFORMERS, MARRÁKESH 141
A MOROCCO FANDAK (CARAVANSARAI) 159
RABHAH, NARRATOR OF THE SLAVE-GIRL'S STORY 185
WAITING FOR THE STEAMER 201
A CITY GATEWAY IN MOROCCO 211
CENTRAL MOROCCO HOMESTEAD 242
JEWESSES OF THE ATLAS 256
A MOORISH KAÏD AND ATTENDANTS 275
TUNISIA UNDER THE FRENCH--AN EXECUTION 299
TENT OF AN ALGERIAN SHEÏKH 313
A TUNISIAN JEWESS IN STREET DRESS 325
OUTSIDE TRIPOLI 330
A SHRINE IN CORDOVA MOSQUE 340
THE MARKET-PLACE, TETUAN 375

NOTE.--The system of transliterating Arabic adopted by the Author in
his previous works has here been followed only so far as it is likely to
be adopted by others than specialists, all signs being omitted which are
not essential to approximate pronunciation.

=LIFE IN MOROCCO=

PART I
I
RETROSPECTIVE
"The firmament turns, and times