the way of the Gambia River, I took
occasion, through means of the President of the Royal Society, to
whom I had the honour to be known, of offering myself for that service;
I had been informed, that a gentleman of the name of Houghton, a
captain in the army, and formerly fort-major at Goree, had already
sailed to the Gambia, under the direction of the association, and that
there was reason to apprehend he had fallen a sacrifice to the climate,
or perished in some contest with the natives; but this intelligence,
instead of deterring me from my purpose, animated me to persist in the
offer of my services with the greater solicitude. I had a passionate
desire to examine into the productions of a country so little known, and
to become experimentally acquainted with the modes of life and
character of the natives. I knew that I was able to bear fatigue, and I
relied on my youth, and the strength of my constitution, to preserve me
from the effects of the climate. The salary which the committee
allowed was sufficiently large, and I made no stipulation for future
reward. If I should perish in my journey, I was willing that my hopes
and expectations should perish with me; and if I should succeed in
rendering the geography of Africa more familiar to my countrymen,
and in opening to their ambition and industry new sources of wealth,
and new channels of commerce, I knew that I was in the hands of men
of honour, who would not fail to bestow that remuneration which my
successful services should appear to them to merit. The Committee of
the Association, having made such inquiries as they thought necessary,
declared themselves satisfied with the qualifications that I possessed,
and accepted me for the service; and with that liberality which on all
occasions distinguishes their conduct, gave me every encouragement
which it was in their power to grant, or which I could with propriety
ask.
It was at first proposed that I should accompany Mr. James Willis, who
was then recently appointed Consul at Senegambia, and whose
countenance in that capacity it was thought might have served and
protected me; but Government afterwards rescinded his appointment,
and I lost that advantage. The kindness of the Committee, however,
supplied all that was necessary. Being favoured by the Secretary of the
Association, the late Henry Beaufoy, Esq. with a recommendation to
Dr. John Laidley, (a gentleman who had resided many years at an
English factory on the banks of the Gambia,) and furnished with a letter
of credit on him for L.200, I took my passage in the brig Endeavour, a
small vessel trading to the Gambia for bees-wax and ivory, commanded
by Captain Richard Wyatt, and I became impatient for my departure.
My instructions were very plain and concise. I was directed, on my
arrival in Africa, "to pass on to the river Niger, either by the way of
Bambouk, or by such other route as should be found most convenient:
That I should ascertain the course, and, if possible, the rise and
termination of that river. That I should use my utmost exertions to visit
the principal towns, or cities in its neighbourhood, particularly
Tombuctoo and Houssa; and that I should be afterwards at liberty to
return to Europe, either by the way of the Gambia, or by such other
route as, under all the then existing circumstances of my situation and
prospects, should appear to me to be most advisable."
We sailed from Portsmouth on the 22d day of May 1795. On the 4th of
June we saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the coast of Africa, and
on the 21st of the same month, after a pleasant voyage of thirty days,
we anchored at Jillifree, a town on the northern bank of the river
Gambia, opposite to James' Island, where the English had formerly a
small port.
The kingdom of Barra, in which the town of Jillifree is situated,
produces great plenty of the necessaries of life; but the chief trade of
the inhabitants is in salt; which commodity they carry up the river in
canoes as high as Barraconda, and bring down in return Indian corn,
cotton cloths, elephants' teeth, small quantities of gold dust. The
number of canoes and people constantly employed in this trade, make
the King of Barra more formidable to Europeans than any other
chieftain on the river; and this circumstance probably encouraged him
to establish those exorbitant duties, which traders of all nations are
obliged to pay at entry, amounting to nearly L. 20 on every vessel,
great and small. These duties, or customs, are generally collected in
person by the Alkaid, or governor of Jillifree, and he is attended on
these occasions by a numerous train
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