Letters on Sweden, Norway and Denmark | Page 9

the calculation of Swedish ducats. Thus, my friend,
you perceive the necessity of perquisites. This same narrow policy runs
through everything. I shall have occasion further to animadvert on it.
Though my host amused me with an account of himself, which gave
me aim idea of the manners of the people I was about to visit, I was
eager to climb the rocks to view the country, and see whether the
honest tars had regained their ship. With the help of the lieutenant's
telescope, I saw the vessel under way with a fair though gentle gale.
The sea was calm, playful even as the most shallow stream, and on the
vast basin I did not see a dark speck to indicate the boat. My
conductors were consequently arrived.
Straying further, my eye was attracted by the sight of some heartsease
that peeped through the rocks. I caught at it as a good omen, and going
to preserve it in a letter that had not conveyed balm to my heart, a cruel
remembrance suffused my eyes; but it passed away like an April
shower. If you are deep read in Shakespeare, you will recollect that this
was the little western flower tinged by love's dart, which "maidens call
love in idleness." The gaiety of my babe was unmixed; regardless of
omens or sentiments, she found a few wild strawberries more grateful
than flowers or fancies.
The lieutenant informed me that this was a commodious bay. Of that I
could not judge, though I felt its picturesque beauty. Rocks were piled
on rocks, forming a suitable bulwark to the ocean. "Come no further,"
they emphatically said, turning their dark sides to the waves to augment
the idle roar. The view was sterile; still little patches of earth of the
most exquisite verdure, enamelled with the sweetest wild flowers,
seemed to promise the goats and a few straggling cows luxurious
herbage. How silent and peaceful was the scene! I gazed around with
rapture, and felt more of that spontaneous pleasure which gives
credibility to our expectation of happiness than I had for a long, long

time before. I forgot the horrors I had witnessed in France, which had
cast a gloom over all nature, and suffering the enthusiasm of my
character--too often, gracious God! damped by the tears of
disappointed affection--to be lighted up afresh, care took wing while
simple fellow-feeling expanded my heart.
To prolong this enjoyment, I readily assented to the proposal of our
host to pay a visit to a family, the master of which spoke English, who
was the drollest dog in the country, he added, repeating some of his
stories with a hearty laugh.
I walked on, still delighted with the rude beauties of the scene; for the
sublime often gave place imperceptibly to the beautiful, dilating the
emotions which were painfully concentrated.
When we entered this abode, the largest I had yet seen, I was
introduced to a numerous family; but the father, from whom I was led
to expect so much entertainment, was absent. The lieutenant
consequently was obliged to be the interpreter of our reciprocal
compliments. The phrases were awkwardly transmitted, it is true; but
looks and gestures were sufficient to make them intelligible and
interesting. The girls were all vivacity, and respect for me could
scarcely keep them from romping with my host, who, asking for a
pinch of snuff, was presented with a box, out of which an artificial
mouse, fastened to the bottom, sprang. Though this trick had doubtless
been played the out of mind, yet the laughter it excited was not less
genuine.
They were overflowing with civility; but, to prevent their almost killing
my babe with kindness, I was obliged to shorten my visit; and two or
three of the girls accompanied us, bringing with them a part of
whatever the house afforded to contribute towards rendering my supper
more plentiful; and plentiful in fact it was, though I with difficulty did
honour to some of the dishes, not relishing the quantity of sugar and
spices put into everything. At supper my host told me bluntly that I was
a woman of observation, for I asked him MEN'S QUESTIONS.
The arrangements for my journey were quickly made. I could only have
a car with post-horses, as I did not choose to wait till a carriage could
be sent for to Gothenburg. The expense of my journey (about one or
two and twenty English miles) I found would not amount to more than
eleven or twelve shillings, paying, he assured me, generously. I gave

him a guinea and a half. But it was with the greatest difficulty that I
could make him take so much--indeed anything--for my lodging and
fare. He declared that it was next to robbing me, explaining how much I