though I am not without great impatience to see a beauty that has been
the admiration of so many different nations. When I have had that
honour, I will not fail to let you know my real thoughts, always taking a
particular pleasure in communicating them to my dear sister.
LETTER VIII
TO MR. P----.
Vienna, Sept.14. O. S. (sic)
PERHAPS you'll laugh at me for thanking you very gravely for all the
obliging concern you express for me. 'Tis certain that I may, if I please,
take the fine things you say to me for wit and raillery; and, it may be, it
would be taking them right. But I never, in my life, was half so well
disposed to take you in earnest as I am at present; and that distance
which makes the continuation of your friendship improbable, has very
much increased my faith in it. I find that I have, (as well as the rest of
my sex) whatever face I set on't, a strong disposition to believe in
miracles. Don't fancy, however, that I am infected by the air of these
popish countries; I have, indeed, so far wandered from the discipline of
the church of England, as to have been last Sunday at the opera, which
was performed in the garden of the Favorita; and I was so much pleased
with it, I have not yet repented my seeing it. Nothing of that kind ever
was more magnificent; and I can easily believe what I am told, that the
decorations and habits cost the emperor thirty thousand pounds Sterling.
The stage was built over a very large canal, and, at the beginning of the
second act, divided into two parts, discovering the water, on which
there immediately came, from different parts, two fleets of little gilded
vessels, that gave the representation of a naval fight. It is not easy to
imagine the beauty of this scene, which I took particular notice of. But
all the rest were perfectly fine in their kind. The story of the opera is
the enchantment of Alcina, which gives opportunities for great variety
of machines, and changes of the scenes, which are performed with a
surprising swiftness. The theatre is so large, that it is hard to carry the
eye to the end of it, and the habits in the utmost magnificence, to the
number of one hundred and eight. No house could hold such large
decorations: but the ladies all sitting in the open air, exposes them to
great inconveniences; for there is but one canopy for the imperial
family; and the first night it was represented, a shower of rain
happening, the opera was broke off, and the company crowded away in
such confusion, that I was almost squeezed to death.--But if their
operas are thus delightful, their comedies are in as high a degree
ridiculous. They have but one play-house, where I had the curiosity to
go to a German comedy, and was very glad it happened to be the story
of Amphitrion (sic). As that subject has been already handled by a
Latin, French, and English poet, I was curious to see what an Austrian
author would make of it. I understand enough of that language to
comprehend the greatest part of it; and besides, I took with me a lady,
that had the goodness to explain to me every word. The way is, to take
a box, which holds four, for yourself and company. The fixed price is a
gold ducat. I thought the house very low and dark; but I confess, the
comedy admirably recompensed that defect. I never laughed so much in
my life. It began with Jupiter's falling in love out of a peep-hole in the
clouds, and ended with the birth of Hercules. But what was most
pleasant, was the use Jupiter made of his metamorphosis; for you no
sooner saw him under the figure of Amphitrion, but, instead of flying to
Alcmena, with the raptures Mr Dryden puts into his mouth, he sends
for Amphitrion's taylor, and cheats him of a laced coat, and his banker
of a bag of money, a Jew of a diamond ring, and bespeaks a great
supper in his name; and the greatest part of the comedy turns upon poor
Amphitrion's being tormented by these people for their debts. Mercury
uses Sofia in the same manner. But I could not easily pardon the liberty
the poet has taken of larding his play with, not only indecent
expressions, but such gross words, as I don't think Our mob would
suffer from a mountebank. Besides, the two Sofias very fairly let down
their breeches in the direct view of the boxes, which were full of people
of the first rank, that seemed very well pleased with their entertainment,
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