Japanese Memories | Page 6

of which I sat alone, with Mr. Hamada on my left hand. Three long tins covered with cloths or towels were in the carriage as foot- warmers. We exchanged occasional remarks during the journey, but the conversation was a great strain, as I could hardly understand a word said to me. We had one other English or American fellow traveller, to whom Mr. Hamada spoke, and later on two Japanese gentlemen came in. I was bewildered by the constant taking-off of hats, for, not merely on entering and leaving the carriage, but all through the conversation, these gentlemen continually raised themselves and their head-gear. Subsequent experience taught me that the object of a polite Japanese is to be the last to bow: hence the repetition of salutations and the constant taking-off of hats.
The names of the stations were marked up in Japanese characters and in English. The scenery struck me as being not beautiful; rice was the chief production, growing in what looked from a distance like mud or standing water one or two inches deep. Afterwards I got accustomed to these endless rice-fields and loved to see the little hut which was often placed in the middle of fields amongst masses of growing rice. It was a shrine in which the God of Rice could be worshipped, and an image of him seemed to be placed in every temple.
On our arrival at Tokio a carriage met us with another gentleman, who gave his card and proved to be a resident tutor. The carriage was most elaborate, the coachman's livery being decked with gold braid and a crest on his buttons. The footman was a great surprise, and for the first time I grasped the derivation of the word, as literally " a man who runs by the side." He was dressed in a blue tunic with a sun-hat, and had the arms of the house on his back. He was a wonderful runner, going on ahead to pick up any babies in the road, or to clear a blind man out of the way, and occasionally uttering shrill yells as he ran, to warn any obstructing rickshas.
Small-pox was a frequent cause of blindness in the early days before vaccination. Old blind men and women are constantly met with on the roads. These blind folk, however, are put to a very useful occupation. They make splendid masseurs, and are found in most inns and hotels, ready to massage stiff limbs after mountainous climbs or long walks. Their touch is extraordinarily soft, and almost magical for easing pain.
On reaching the house, I noticed that there were several small dwellings adjoining it, and these I learned were inhabited by the attendants. The house itself was an unattractive construction of dark red wood, with a wooden verandah over the entrance. It was situated near the German Legation, and about a quarter of an hour's walk from the British Legation.
When the door was opened, the first person to greet me was Mrs. Whitehead, whom I had known in the Embassy in Berlin, and who was in deep mourning for our beloved Queen Victoria. Standing step-wise behind her were my young charges, four little boys, clad in black suits piped with red, like an English postman's uniform, the regulation dress for the younger boys at the Nobles' School, which they attended. Several gentlemen were also standing in the background, beside a youth who looked about fourteen years old, and was dressed in a dark blue uniform, with two little gold cherry-blossom petals on his collar. This was the Prince, who shook hands with me, after which Mr. Nagasaki, one of the Masters of the Ceremonies at the Emperor's Court, came forward and introduced me to the various gentlemen, the chief being a guardian uncle, who could not speak a word of English, and who looked very disapprovingly at me. Then the four little brothers came up to me; and their bright, attractive faces not only welcomed me but soothed my home-sick heart, and I felt thankful to have them near me.
Mrs. Whitehead then took me upstairs to my bedroom, which had been carefully furnished for me. She told me how anxious the family were that I should be happy and comfortable. The room was a large one, with a Brussels carpet, a nice writing-desk, and various bits of furniture. A little matted room led out of it, occupied by the amah, or maid. The amah, Koma by name, had been especially chosen for my service, because she could speak English; but on the very first remark she addressed to me I found it impossible to understand her, and her ignorance of the language when I spoke to her was expressed in her vacant face. She seemed anxious to please me on that first day of