Indian Summer | Page 4

disappointment, unless he arrives
very young and for the first time. It is a city superficially so well
known that it affects one somewhat like a collection of views of itself;
they are from the most striking points, of course, but one has examined
them before, and is disposed to be critical of them. Certain emotions,
certain sensations failed to repeat themselves to Colville at sight of the
familiar monuments, which seemed to wear a hardy and indifferent air,
as if being stared at so many years by so many thousands of travellers
had extinguished in them that sensibility which one likes to fancy in
objects of interest everywhere.
The life which was as vivid all about him as if caught by the latest

instantaneous process made the same comparatively ineffective appeal.
The operatic spectacle was still there. The people, with their cloaks
statuesquely draped over their left shoulders, moved down the street, or
posed in vehement dialogue on the sidewalks; the drama of bargaining,
with the customer's scorn, the shopman's pathos, came through the
open shop door; the handsome, heavy-eyed ladies, the bare-headed girls,
thronged the ways; the caffès were full of the well-remembered figures
over their newspapers and little cups; the officers were as splendid as of
old, with their long cigars in their mouths, their swords kicking against
their beautiful legs, and their spurs jingling; the dandies, with their little
dogs and their flower-like smiles, were still in front of the
confectioners' for the inspection of the ladies who passed; the old
beggar still crouched over her scaldino at the church door, and the
young man with one leg, whom he thought to escape by walking fast,
had timed him to a second from the other side of the street. There was
the wonted warmth in the sunny squares, and the old familiar damp and
stench in the deep narrow streets. But some charm had gone out of all
this. The artisans coming to the doors of their shallow booths for the
light on some bit of carpentering, or cobbling, or tinkering; the crowds
swarming through the middle of the streets on perfect terms with the
wine-carts and cab horses; the ineffective grandiosity of the palaces
huddled upon the crooked thoroughfares; the slight but insinuating cold
of the southern winter, gathering in the shade and dispersing in the sun,
and denied everywhere by the profusion of fruit and flowers, and by the
greenery of gardens showing through the grated portals and over the
tops of high walls; the groups of idle poor, permanently or temporarily
propped against the bases of edifices with a southern exposure; the
priests and monks and nuns in their gliding passage; the impassioned
snapping of the cabmen's whips; the clangour of bells that at some
hours inundated the city, and then suddenly subsided and left it to the
banging of coppersmiths; the open-air frying of cakes, with its
primitive smell of burning fat; the tramp of soldiery, and the fanfare of
bugles blown to gay measures--these and a hundred other characteristic
traits and facts still found a response in the consciousness where they
were once a rapture of novelty; but the response was faint and thin; he
could not warm over the old mood in which he once treasured them all
away as of equal preciousness.

Of course there was a pleasure in recognising some details of former
experience in Florence as they recurred. Colville had been met at once
by a festa, when nothing could be done, and he was more than consoled
by the caressing sympathy with which he was assured that his broken
trunk could not be mended till the day after to-morrow; he had quite
forgotten about the festas and the sympathy. That night the piazza on
which he lodged seemed full of snow to the casual glance he gave it;
then he saw that it was the white Italian moonlight, which he had also
forgotten....

II
Colville had readied this point in that sarcastic study of his own
condition of mind for the advantage of his late readers in the
Post-Democrat-Republican, when he was aware of a polite rustling of
draperies, with an ensuing well-bred murmur, which at once ignored
him, deprecated intrusion upon him, and asserted a common right to the
prospect on which he had been dwelling alone. He looked round with
an instinctive expectation of style and poise, in which he was not
disappointed. The lady, with a graceful lift of the head and a very erect
carriage, almost Bernhardtesque in the backward fling of her shoulders
and the strict compression of her elbows to her side, was pointing out
the different bridges to the little girl who was with her.
"That first one is the Santa Trinità, and the next is the Carraja, and that