Inca Land - Explorations in the Highlands of Peru | Page 3

Espiritu
Pampa 294 Photograph by H. W. Foote Campa Men at Espiritu Pampa
302 Photograph by H. L. Tucker Campa Women and Children at
Espiritu Pampa 302 Photograph by H. L. Tucker Puma Urco, near
Paccaritampu 306 The Best Inca Wall at Maucallacta, near
Paccaritampu 312 The Caves of Puma Urco, Near Paccaritampu 312
Flashlight View of Interior of Cave, Machu Picchu 320 Temple over
Cave at Machu Picchu; suggested by the Author as the Probable Site of
Tampu-tocco 320 Detail of Principal Temple, Machu Picchu 324 Detail
of Exterior of Temple of the Three Windows, Machu Picchu 324 The
Masonry Wall with Three Windows, Machu Picchu 328 The Gorges,
opening Wide Apart, reveal Uilcapampa's Granite Citadel, the Crown
of Inca Land 338
Except as otherwise indicated the illustrations are from photographs by

the author.

------ FIGURE
Sketch Map of Southern Peru. ------

INCA LAND

CHAPTER I
Crossing the Desert
A kind friend in Bolivia once placed in my hands a copy of a most
interesting book by the late E. George Squier, entitled "Peru. Travel
and Exploration in the Land of the Incas." In that volume is a
marvelous picture of the Apurimac Valley. In the foreground is a
delicate suspension bridge which commences at a tunnel in the face of
a precipitous cliff and hangs in mid-air at great height above the
swirling waters of the "great speaker." In the distance, towering above a
mass of stupendous mountains, is a magnificent snow-capped peak.
The desire to see the Apurimac and experience the thrill of crossing
that bridge decided me in favor of an overland journey to Lima.
As a result I went to Cuzco, the ancient capital of the mighty empire of
the Incas, and was there urged by the Peruvian authorities to visit some
newly re-discovered Inca ruins. As readers of "Across South America"
will remember, these ruins were at Choqquequirau, an interesting place
on top of a jungle-covered ridge several thousand feet above the roaring
rapids of the great Apurimac. There was some doubt as to who had
originally lived here. The prefect insisted that the ruins represented the
residence of the Inca Manco and his sons, who had sought refuge from
Pizarro and the Spanish conquerors of Peru in the Andes between the
Apurimac and Urubamba rivers.

While Mr. Clarence L. Hay and I were on the slopes of Choqquequirau
the clouds would occasionally break away and give us tantalizing
glimpses of snow-covered mountains. There seemed to be an unknown
region, "behind the Ranges," which might contain great possibilities.
Our guides could tell us nothing about it. Little was to be found in
books. Perhaps Manco's capital was hidden there. For months
afterwards the fascination of the unknown drew my thoughts to
Choqquequirau and beyond. In the words of Kipling's "Explorer":
"... a voice, as bad as Conscience, rang interminable changes On one
everlasting Whisper day and night repeated--so: 'Something hidden. Go
and find it. Go and look behind the Ranges-- Something lost behind the
Ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go!' "
To add to my unrest, during the following summer I read Bandelier's
"Titicaca and Koati," which had just appeared. In one of the interesting
footnotes was this startling remark: "It is much to be desired that the
elevation of the most prominent peaks of the western or coast range of
Peru be accurately determined. It is likely ... that Coropuna, in the
Peruvian coast range of the Department Arequipa, is the culminating
point of the continent. It exceeds 23,000 feet in height, whereas
Aconcagua [conceded to be the highest peak in the Western
Hemisphere] is but 22,763 feet (6940 meters) above sea level." His
estimate was based on a survey made by the civil engineers of the
Southern Railways of Peru, using a section of the railroad as a base.
My sensations when I read this are difficult to describe. Although I had
been studying South American history and geography for more than ten
years, I did not remember ever to have heard of Coropuna. On most
maps it did not exist. Fortunately, on one of the sheets of Raimondi's
large-scale map of Peru, I finally found "Coropuna--6,949 m."--9
meters higher than Aconcagua!--one hundred miles northwest of
Arequipa, near the 73d meridian west of Greenwich.
Looking up and down the 73d meridian as it crossed Peru from the
Amazon Valley to the Pacific Ocean, I saw that it passed very near
Choqquequirau, and actually traversed those very lands "behind the
Ranges" which had been beckoning to me. The coincidence was

intriguing. The desire to go and find that "something hidden" was now
reënforced by the temptation to go and see whether Coropuna really
was the highest mountain in America. There followed the organization
of an expedition whose object was a geographical reconnaissance