In Troubador-Land | Page 2

Arles--Notre Dame de la Majeur--S. C?saire--The isles near Arles--Cordes--Montmajeur--A gipsy camp--The ruins--Tower--The chapel of S. Croix

CHAPTER IX.
LES BAUX.
The chain of the Alpines--The promontory of Les Baux--The railway from Arles to Salon--First sight of Les Baux--The churches of S. Victor, S. Claude, and S. Andrew--The lords of Les Baux claimed descent from one of the Magi--The fair maid with golden locks--The chapel of the White Penitents--The _de?mo_--History of the House of Les Baux--The barony passes to the Grimaldi--The ladies of Les Baux and the troubadours--Fouquet--William de Cabestaing--The morality of the loves of the troubadours--The Porcelets--Story of a siege--Les Baux a place of refuge for the citizens of Arles--_Glanum Livi?_--Its Roman remains--In the train--J?ger garments

CHAPTER X.
THE CAMPAIGN OF MARIUS.
The Tréma?é--Representation of C. Marius, Martha, and Julia--The Ga?é--The Teutons and Ambrons and Cimbri threaten Italy--C. Marius sent against them--His camp at S. Gabriel--The canal he cut--The barbarians cross the Rhone--First brush with them--They defile before him at Orgon--The rout of the Ambrons at Les Milles--He follows the Teutons--The plain of Pourrières--Position of Marius--The battle--Slaughter of the Teutons--Position of their camp--Monument of Marius--Venus Victrix--Annual commemoration

CHAPTER XI.
TRETS AND GARDANNE.
The fortifications of Trets--The streets--The church--Roman sarcophagus--Chateau of Trets--Visit to a self-educated arch?ologist--His collection made on the battle-field--Dispute over a pot of burnt bones--One magpie--Gardanne--The church--A vielle--Trouble with it--Story of an executioner's sword

CHAPTER XII.
AIX.
Dooll, but the mutton good--Les Bains de Sextius--Ironwork caps to towers--S. Jean de Malthe--Museum--Cathedral--Tapestries and tombs--The cloisters--View from S. Eutrope--King René of Anjou--His misfortunes--His cheeriness--His statue at Aix--Introduces the Muscat grape

CHAPTER XIII.
THE CAMARGUE.
Formation of the delta of the Rhone--The diluvial wash--The alluvium spread over this--The three stages the river pursues--The zone of erosion--The zone of compensation--The zone of deposit--River mouths--Estuaries and deltas--The formation of bars--Of lagoons--The lagoons of the Gulf of Lyons--The ancient position of Arles between the river and the lagoons--Neglect of the lagoons in the Middle Ages--They become morasses--Attempt at remedy--Embankments and drains--A mistake made--The Camargue now a desert--Les Saintes Maries--No evidence to support the legend--Based on a misapprehension

CHAPTER XIV.
TARASCON.
Position of Tarascon and Beaucaire opposite each other--Church of S. Martha--Crypt--Ancient paintings--Catechising--Ancient altar--The festival of the Tarasque--The Phoenician goddess Martha--Story of S. Fronto--Discussion at _déje?ner_ over the entry of M. Carnot into Marseilles--The change in the French character--Pessimism--Beaucaire--Font--Castle--Siege by Raymond VII.--Story of Aucassin and Nicolette

CHAPTER XV.
NIMES.
The right spelling of Nimes--Derivation of name--The fountain--Throwing coins into springs--Collecting coins--Symbol of Agrippa--Character of Agrippa--What he did for Nimes--The Maison Carrée--Different idea of worship in the Heathen world from what prevails in Christendom--S. Baudille--Vespers--Activity of the Church in France--Behaviour of the clergy in Italy to the King and Queen--The Revolution a blessing to the Church in France--Church services in Italy and in France--The Tourmagne--Uncertainty as to its use--Cathedral of Nimes--Other churches--A canary lottery--Altars to the Sun--The sun-wheel--The cross of Constantine--Anecdote of Fléchier

CHAPTER XVI.
AIGUES MORTES AND MAGUELONNE.
A dead town--The Rh?nes-morts--Bars--S. Louis and the Crusades--How S. Louis acquired Aigues Mortes--His canal--The four littoral chains and lagoons--The fortifications--Unique for their date--Original use of battlements--Deserted state of the town--Maguelonne--How reached--History of Maguelonne--Cathedral--The Bishops forge Saracen coins--Second destruction of the place--Inscription on door--Bernard de Treviis--His romance of Pierre de Provence--Proven?al poetry not always immoral--Present state of Maguelonne

CHAPTER XVII.
BéZIERS AND NARBONNE.
Position of Béziers--S. Nazaire--The Albigenses--Their tenets--Albigensian "consolation"--Crusade against them--The storming of Béziers--Massacre--Cathedral of Béziers--Girls' faces in the train--Similar faces at Narbonne, in cathedral and museum--Narbonne a Roman colony--All the Roman buildings destroyed--Caps of liberty--Christian sarcophagi--Children's toys of baked clay--Cathedral unfinished--Archiepiscopal palace--Unsatisfactory work of M. Viollet-le-Duc--In trouble with the police--Taken for a German spy--My sketch-book gets me off

CHAPTER XVIII.
CARCASSONNE.
Siege of Carcassonne by the Crusaders--Capture--Perfidy of legate--Death of the Viscount--Continuation of the war--Churches of New Carcassonne--_La Cité_--A perfect Medi?val fortified town--Disappointing--Visigoth fortifications--Later additions--The cathedral--Tomb of Simon de Montfort

CHAPTER XIX.
AVIGNON.
How Avignon passed to the Popes--The court of Clement VI.--John XXII.--Benedict XII.--Their tombs--Petrarch and Laura--The Palace of the Popes--The Salle Br?lée--Cathedral--Porch--S. Agricole--Church of S. Pierre--The museum--View from the Rocher des doms--The Rhone--The bridge--Story of S. Benezet--Dancing on bridges--Villeneuve--Tomb of Innocent VI.--The castle at Villeneuve--Defences--Tête-du-pont of the bridge

CHAPTER XX.
VALENCE.
A dull town--Cathedral--Jacques Cujas--His daughter--Pius VI.--His death--Maison des Têtes--Le Pendentif--The castle of Crussol--The dukes of Uzes--A dramatic company of the thirteenth century

CHAPTER XXI.
VIENNE.
Historic associations--Salvation Army bonnets--The fair--A quack--A vampire--The amphitrite--A _carousel_--Temple of Augustus and Livia--The Aiguille--Cathedral--Angels and musical instruments--S. André-le-Bas--Situation of Vienne--Foundation of the Church there--Letter of the Church on the martyrdoms at Lyons

CHAPTER XXII.
BOURGES.
The siege of Avaricum by C?sar--The complete subjugation of Gaul--The statue of the Dying Gaul at Rome--Beauty of Bourges--The cathedral--Not completed according to design--Defect in height--Strict geometrical proportion in design not always satisfactory--Necessity of proportion for acoustics--Domestic architecture in Bourges--The house of Jacques Coeur--Story of his life--A rainy day--Why Bourges included in this book--A silver thimble--_Que de singeries faites-vous là, Madeleine?_--Adieu
APPENDIX

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Tower of S. Trophimus, Arles Abbey of S. Victor, Marseilles Part of the North Cloister of Arles Cathedral Les Baux The Pont du Gard Béziers from the River An Entrance to Carcassonne