In Morocco | Page 2

M. Louis Châtelain has dealt with the Roman ruins of Volubilis and M.
Tranchant de Lunel, M. Raymond Koechlin, M. Gaillard, M. Ricard,
and many other French scholars, have written of Moslem architecture
and art in articles published either in "France-Maroc," as introductions
to catalogues of exhibitions, or in the reviews and daily papers. Pierre
Loti and M. André Chevrillon have reflected, with the intensest visual
sensibility, the romantic and ruinous Morocco of yesterday, and in the
volumes of the "Conférences Marocaines," published by the French
government, the experts gathered about the Resident-General have
examined the industrial and agricultural Morocco of tomorrow. Lastly,
one striking book sums up, with the clearness and consecutiveness of
which French scholarship alone possesses the art, the chief things to be
said on all these subjects, save that of art and archaeology. This is M.
Augustin Bernard's volume, "Le Maroc," the one portable and compact
yet full and informing book since Leo Africanus described the bazaars
of Fez. But M. Augustin Bernard deals only with the ethnology, the

social, religious and political history, and the physical properties, of the
country; and this, though "a large order," leaves out the visual and
picturesque side, except in so far as the book touches on the always
picturesque life of the people.
For the use, therefore, of the happy wanderers who may be planning a
Moroccan journey, I have added to the record of my personal
impressions a slight sketch of the history and art of the country. In
extenuation of the attempt I must add that the chief merit of this sketch
will be its absence of originality. Its facts will be chiefly drawn from
the pages of M. Augustin Bernard, M. H. Saladin, and M. Gaston
Migeon, and the rich sources of the "Conférences Marocaines" and the
articles of "France-Maroc." It will also be deeply indebted to
information given on the spot by the brilliant specialists of the French
administration, to the Marquis de Segonzac, with whom I had the good
luck to travel from Rabat to Marrakech and back; to M. Alfred de
Tarde, editor of "France-Maroc"; to M. Tranchant de Lunel, director of
the French School of Fine Arts in Morocco; to M. Goulven, the
historian of Portuguese Mazagan, to M. Louis Châtelain, and to the
many other cultivated and cordial French officials, military and civilian,
who, at each stage of my journey, did their amiable best to answer my
questions and open my eyes.

NOTE
In the writing of proper names and of other Arab words the French
spelling has been followed.
In the case of proper names, and names of cities and districts, this
seems justified by the fact that they occur in a French colony, where
French usage naturally prevails, and to spell Oudjda in the French way,
and koubba, for instance, in the English form of kubba, would cause
needless confusion as to their respective pronunciation. It seems
therefore simpler, in a book written for the ordinary traveller, to
conform altogether to French usage.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
PREFACE
I. RABAT AND SALÉ
II. VOLUBILIS, MOULAY IDRISS AND MEKNEZ
III. FEZ
IV. MARRAKECH
V. HAREMS AND CEREMONIES
VI. GENERAL LYAUTEY'S WORK IN MOROCCO
VII. A SKETCH OF MOROCCAN HISTORY
VIII. NOTE ON MOROCCAN ARCHITECTURE
IX. BOOKS CONSULTED
INDEX

ILLUSTRATIONS
FEZ ELBALI FROM THE RAMPARTS
GENERAL VIEW FROM THE KASBAH OF THE
OUDAYAS--RABAT
INTERIOR COURT OF THE MEDERSA OF THE
OUDAYAS--RABAT
ENTRANCE OF THE MEDERSA--SALÉ

MARKET-PLACE OUTSIDE THE TOWN--SALÉ
CHELLA--RUINS OF MOSQUE--SALÉ
THE WESTERN PORTICO OF THE BASILICA OF ANTONIUS
PIUS--VOLUBILIS
MOULAY IDRISS
THE MARKET-PLACE--MOULAY IDRISS
MARKET-PLACE ON THE DAY OF THE RITUAL DANCE OF
THE HAMADCHAS--MOULAY IDRISS
THE MARKET-PLACE PROCESSION OF THE CONFRATERNITY
OF THE HAMADCHAS--MOULAY IDRISS
GATE: "BAB-MANSOUR"--MEKNEZ
THE RUINS OF THE PALACE OF MOULAY-ISMAEL--MEKNEZ
FEZ ELDJID
A REED-ROOFED STREET--FEZ
THE NEDJARINE FOUNTAIN--FEZ
THE BAZAARS: A VIEW OF THE SOUK EL ATTARINE AND
THE QUAISARYA--FEZ
THE "LITTLE GARDEN" IN BACKGROUND, PALACE OF THE
BAHIA--MARRAKECH
THE GREAT COURT, PALACE OF THE BAHIA--MARRAKECH
APARTMENT OF THE GRAND VIZIER'S FAVORITE, PALACE
OF THE BAHIA--MARRAKECH
A FONDAK--MARRAKECH

MAUSOLEUM OF THE SAADIAN SULTANS SHOWING THE
TOMBS--MARRAKECH
THE SULTAN OF MOROCCO UNDER THE GREEN UMBRELLA
A CLAN OF MOUNTAINEERS AND THEIR CAÏD
THE SULTAN ENTERING MARRAKECH IN STATE
WOMEN WATCHING A PROCESSION FROM A ROOF
A STREET FOUNTAIN--MARRAKECH
GATE OF THE KASBAH OF THE OUDAYAS--RABAT
MEDERSA BOUANYANA--FEZ
THE PRAYING-CHAPEL IN THE MEDERSA EL ATTARINE--FEZ
INTERIOR COURT OF THE MEDERSA--SALÉ
THE GATE OF THE PORTUGUESE--MARRAKECH
MAP
THE PART OF MOROCCO VISITED BY MRS. WHARTON

I
RABAT AND SALÉ
I
LEAVING TANGIER
To step on board a steamer in a Spanish port, and three hours later to
land in a country without a guide-book, is a sensation to rouse the
hunger of the repletest sight-seer.

The sensation is attainable by any one who will take the trouble to row
out