In Morocco | Page 2

articles published either in "France-Maroc," as introductions to catalogues of exhibitions, or in the reviews and daily papers. Pierre Loti and M. André Chevrillon have reflected, with the intensest visual sensibility, the romantic and ruinous Morocco of yesterday, and in the volumes of the "Conférences Marocaines," published by the French government, the experts gathered about the Resident-General have examined the industrial and agricultural Morocco of tomorrow. Lastly, one striking book sums up, with the clearness and consecutiveness of which French scholarship alone possesses the art, the chief things to be said on all these subjects, save that of art and archaeology. This is M. Augustin Bernard's volume, "Le Maroc," the one portable and compact yet full and informing book since Leo Africanus described the bazaars of Fez. But M. Augustin Bernard deals only with the ethnology, the social, religious and political history, and the physical properties, of the country; and this, though "a large order," leaves out the visual and picturesque side, except in so far as the book touches on the always picturesque life of the people.
For the use, therefore, of the happy wanderers who may be planning a Moroccan journey, I have added to the record of my personal impressions a slight sketch of the history and art of the country. In extenuation of the attempt I must add that the chief merit of this sketch will be its absence of originality. Its facts will be chiefly drawn from the pages of M. Augustin Bernard, M. H. Saladin, and M. Gaston Migeon, and the rich sources of the "Conférences Marocaines" and the articles of "France-Maroc." It will also be deeply indebted to information given on the spot by the brilliant specialists of the French administration, to the Marquis de Segonzac, with whom I had the good luck to travel from Rabat to Marrakech and back; to M. Alfred de Tarde, editor of "France-Maroc"; to M. Tranchant de Lunel, director of the French School of Fine Arts in Morocco; to M. Goulven, the historian of Portuguese Mazagan, to M. Louis Chatelain, and to the many other cultivated and cordial French officials, military and civilian, who, at each stage of my journey, did their amiable best to answer my questions and open my eyes.

NOTE
In the writing of proper names and of other Arab words the French spelling has been followed.
In the case of proper names, and names of cities and districts, this seems justified by the fact that they occur in a French colony, where French usage naturally prevails, and to spell Oudjda in the French way, and koubba, for instance, in the English form of kubba, would cause needless confusion as to their respective pronunciation. It seems therefore simpler, in a book written for the ordinary traveller, to conform altogether to French usage.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
PREFACE
I. RABAT AND SALé
II. VOLUBILIS, MOULAY IDRISS AND MEKNEZ
III. FEZ
IV. MARRAKECH
V. HAREMS AND CEREMONIES
VI. GENERAL LYAUTEY'S WORK IN MOROCCO
VII. A SKETCH OF MOROCCAN HISTORY
VIII. NOTE ON MOROCCAN ARCHITECTURE
IX. BOOKS CONSULTED
INDEX

ILLUSTRATIONS
FEZ ELBALI FROM THE RAMPARTS
GENERAL VIEW FROM THE KASBAH OF THE OUDAYAS--RABAT
INTERIOR COURT OF THE MEDERSA OF THE OUDAYAS--RABAT
ENTRANCE OF THE MEDERSA--SALé
MARKET-PLACE OUTSIDE THE TOWN--SALé
CHELLA--RUINS OF MOSQUE--SALé
THE WESTERN PORTICO OF THE BASILICA OF ANTONIUS PIUS--VOLUBILIS
MOULAY IDRISS
THE MARKET-PLACE--MOULAY IDRISS
MARKET-PLACE ON THE DAY OF THE RITUAL DANCE OF THE HAMADCHAS--MOULAY IDRISS
THE MARKET-PLACE PROCESSION OF THE CONFRATERNITY OF THE HAMADCHAS--MOULAY IDRISS
GATE: "BAB-MANSOUR"--MEKNEZ
THE RUINS OF THE PALACE OF MOULAY-ISMAEL--MEKNEZ
FEZ ELDJID
A REED-ROOFED STREET--FEZ
THE NEDJARINE FOUNTAIN--FEZ
THE BAZAARS: A VIEW OF THE SOUK EL ATTARINE AND THE QUAISARYA--FEZ
THE "LITTLE GARDEN" IN BACKGROUND, PALACE OF THE BAHIA--MARRAKECH
THE GREAT COURT, PALACE OF THE BAHIA--MARRAKECH
APARTMENT OF THE GRAND VIZIER'S FAVORITE, PALACE OF THE BAHIA--MARRAKECH
A FONDAK--MARRAKECH
MAUSOLEUM OF THE SAADIAN SULTANS SHOWING THE TOMBS--MARRAKECH
THE SULTAN OF MOROCCO UNDER THE GREEN UMBRELLA
A CLAN OF MOUNTAINEERS AND THEIR CA?D
THE SULTAN ENTERING MARRAKECH IN STATE
WOMEN WATCHING A PROCESSION FROM A ROOF
A STREET FOUNTAIN--MARRAKECH
GATE OF THE KASBAH OF THE OUDAYAS--RABAT
MEDERSA BOUANYANA--FEZ
THE PRAYING-CHAPEL IN THE MEDERSA EL ATTARINE--FEZ
INTERIOR COURT OF THE MEDERSA--SALé
THE GATE OF THE PORTUGUESE--MARRAKECH
MAP
THE PART OF MOROCCO VISITED BY MRS. WHARTON

I
RABAT AND SALé
I
LEAVING TANGIER
To step on board a steamer in a Spanish port, and three hours later to land in a country without a guide-book, is a sensation to rouse the hunger of the repletest sight-seer.
The sensation is attainable by any one who will take the trouble to row out into the harbour of Algeciras and scramble onto a little black boat headed across the straits. Hardly has the rock of Gibraltar turned to cloud when one's foot is on the soil of an almost unknown Africa. Tangier, indeed, is in the guide-books; but, cuckoo-like, it has had to lays its eggs in strange nests, and the traveller who wants to find out about it must acquire a work dealing with some other country--Spain or Portugal or Algeria. There is no guide-book to Morocco, and no way of knowing, once one