How to Enjoy Paris in 1842 | Page 9

deform the view than
otherwise, are here so constructed as to contribute to its ornament, more
resembling villas than buildings solely for utility. Hills, wood, water,
bridges, chateaux, cottages, corn fields and meadows are so
picturesquely intermingled, that every object which can give charm to a
landscape is here united. There are several hills round Rouen which
present prospects nearly equal to that which is witnessed from Mount
Catherine, and in fact it is difficult to imagine any situation which
affords so many pleasant walks and such enchanting scenery. Indeed,
all the way to Paris by this route (that is by what is called the lower
road) which for a considerable distance runs within sight of the Seine,
the country is most highly interesting, passing through Louvier, Gaillon,
Vernon, Mantes and St. Germains.
Calais, as being the nearest point to the English coast, and at which we
so often obtain our first peep at France, merits some notice, and
although it offers but few attractions, and is surrounded by a flat
cheerless country, yet there are connected with it some associations
which are replete with interest; as who that has ever read Sterne's
Sentimental Journey can forget the simple but impressive description
he gives of the poor friar and other objects which he there met, and
which he has engraven on the minds of his readers, in his own peculiar
style, in characters never to be erased; for my part, as I first approached
Calais I thought but of Sterne and his plain, unvarnished tale, of the
trifles he encountered, around which he contrived to weave an interest
which is felt even by the inhabitants of Calais to this day; although they
knew his works but through the spoiling medium of translation, still

they never fail to exhibit to the Englishman the alcove in which he is
said to have written his adventures in Calais. As I entered the town,
instantly the works of Hogarth appeared before me, for who is there
that does not remember his excellent representation of the Gates of
Calais, with the meagre sentinel and still more skinny cook bending
under the weight of a dish crowned with an enormous sirloin of beef,
no doubt intended to regale some newly-arrived John Bull, whilst a fat
monk scans it with a longing eye. Next the bust of Eustache de St.
Pierre awakes the attention, and the surrender of Calais and his devoted
patriotism rises in one's memory. Another souvenir also must not be
forgotten, namely, the print of the foot of Louis the Eighteenth, which
is cut in the stone, and a piece of brass let in where he first stepped on
shore, and undoubtedly represents a very pretty little foot; but when a
Frenchman who was no amateur of the Bourbon dynasty was asked to
admire its symmetry, he observed it was very well, but that it would
look much better if it was turned t'other way, that is to say, going out of
the kingdom instead of coming into it. If the traveller have time, it is
worth while to mount a tower, at the top of which is a sort of lantern
capable of containing about a dozen persons, and commanding a most
extensive view over the sea, and on the opposite side the country is
visible for a considerable distance, bearing a most uninviting
appearance. There are a great number of hôtels at Calais, and I have
been at many of them, but have found that kept by M. Derhorter, called
the Hôtel Bourbon, the most comfortable and economical, and the
civility of the master cannot anywhere be surpassed. Dessin's, for the
nobility and those who have equipages, is still the favourite and has
been for time immemorial.
Nothing worthy of note presents itself between Calais and Boulogne,
except the little village of Wimille, which made some impression upon
my mind, as being so much prettier and so much more village-like than
any other through which we had passed, and near here perished the
unfortunate æronauts Pilatre and Romain, falling from their balloon
when at a prodigious height from the ground and in sight of many
spectators. They were buried in the churchyard, in which a monument
has been erected commemorative of the event. About two miles from
this hamlet Boulogne appears in sight, cheering the spectator by its gay

and animated aspect, the numerous groups of genteel-looking persons
constantly promenading the streets, pier and port, give it a most lively
appearance, which is enhanced by the extreme cleanliness which is
observed in all the principal streets, and the cheerful air afforded by the
white stone houses with their green balconies and shutters. But the
numerously well-dressed portion of the population, which so greatly
contribute towards enlivening the scene, consists almost wholly of
English, as