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to as brilliant a table, and for the
first time in his life, he saw candles lighted at a dinner; but he was not a
man to be disconcerted at a novelty. Had he been a European of the
same origin and habits, awkwardness would have betrayed him fifty

times, before the dessert made its appearance; but, being the man he
was, one who overlooked a certain prurient politeness that rather
illustrated his deportment, might very well have permitted him to pass
among the oi polloi of the world, were it not for a peculiar management
in the way of providing for himself. It is true, he asked every one near
him to eat of every thing he could himself reach, and that he used his
knife as a coal-heaver uses a shovel; but the company he was in, though
fastidious in its own deportment, was altogether above the
silver-forkisms, and this portion of his demeanour, if it did not escape
undetected, passed away unnoticed. Not so, however, with the
peculiarity already mentioned as an exception. This touch of
deportment, (or management, perhaps, is the better word,) being
characteristic of the man, it deserves to be mentioned a little in detail.
The service at Mr. Effingham's table was made in the quiet, but
thorough manner that distinguishes a French dinner. Every dish was
removed, carved by the domestics, and handed in turn to each guest.
But there were a delay and a finish in this arrangement that suited
neither Aristabulus's go-a-head-ism, nor his organ of acquisitiveness.
Instead of waiting, therefore, for the more graduated movements of the
domestics, he began to take care of himself, an office that he performed
with a certain dexterity that he had acquired by frequenting
ordinaries--a school, by the way, in which he had obtained most of his
notions of the proprieties of the table. One or two slices were obtained
in the usual manner, or by means of the regular service; and, then, like
one who had laid the foundation of a fortune, by some lucky windfall in
the commencement of his career, he began to make accessions, right
and left, as opportunity offered. Sundry entremets, or light dishes that
had a peculiarly tempting appearance, came first under his grasp. Of
these he soon accumulated all within his reach, by taxing his
neighbours, when he ventured to send his plate, here and there, or
wherever he saw a dish that promised to reward his trouble. By such
means, which were resorted to, however, with a quiet and unobtrusive
assiduity that escaped much observation, Mr. Bragg contrived to make
his own plate a sample epitome of the first course. It contained in the
centre, fish, beef, and ham; and around these staple articles, he had
arranged _croquettes, rognons, râgouts_, vegetables, and other light

things, until not only was the plate completely covered, but it was
actually covered in double and triple layers; mustard, cold butter, salt,
and even pepper, garnishing its edges. These different accumulations
were the work of time and address, and most of the company had
repeatedly changed their plates before Aristabulus had eaten a mouthful,
the soup excepted. The happy moment when his ingenuity was to be
rewarded, had now arrived, and the land agent was about to commence
the process of mastication, or of deglutition rather, for he troubled
himself very little with the first operation, when the report of a cork
drew his attention towards the chaimpaigne. To Aristabulus this wine
never came amiss, for, relishing its piquancy, he had never gone far
enough into the science of the table to learn which were the proper
moments for using it. As respected all the others at table, this moment
had in truth arrived, though, as respected himself, he was no nearer to it,
according to a regulated taste, than when he first took his seat.
Perceiving that Pierre was serving it, however, he offered his own glass,
and enjoyed a delicious instant, as he swallowed a beverage that much
surpassed any thing he had ever known to issue out of the waxed and
leaded nozles that, pointed like so many enemies' batteries, loaded with
headaches and disordered stomachs, garnished sundry village bars of
his acquaintance.
Aristabulus finished his glass at a draught, and when he took breath, he
fairly smacked his lips. That was an unlucky instant, his plate,
burthened with all its treasures, being removed, at this unguarded
moment; the man who performed the unkind office, fancying that a
dislike to the dishes could alone have given rise to such an omnium-
gatherum.
It was necessary to commence de novo, but this could no longer be
done with the first course, which was removed, and Aristabulus set- to,
with zeal, forthwith, on the game. Necessity compelled him to eat, as
the