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any extra manuring or cultivation. When the field was plowed up in the
fall, all three sections were as distinctly noticeable as though separated

by a fence. And I know that next spring's crop of rye, before it is
plowed under, will show the lines of demarcation just as plainly.
This, then, will give you an idea of a good garden soil. Perhaps in yours
there will be too much sand, or too much clay. That will be a
disadvantage, but one which energy and perseverance will soon
overcome to a great extent--by what methods may be learned in
Chapter VIII.
DRAINAGE
There is, however, one other thing you must look out for in selecting
your garden site, and that is drainage. Dig down eight or twelve inches
after you have picked out a favorable spot, and examine the sub-soil.
This is the second strata, usually of different texture and color from the
rich surface soil, and harder than it. If you find a sandy or gravelly bed,
no matter how yellow and poor it looks, you have chosen the right spot.
But if it be a stiff, heavy clay, especially a blue clay, you will have
either to drain it or be content with a very late garden--that is, unless
you are at the top of a knoll or on a slope.
Chapter VII
contains further suggestions in regard to this problem.
SOIL ANTECEDENTS
There was a further reason for, mentioning that strip of onion ground. It
is a very practical illustration of what last year's handling of the soil
means to this year's garden. If you can pick out a spot, even if it is not
the most desirable in other ways, that has been well enriched or
cultivated for a year or two previous, take that for this year's garden.
And in the meantime have the spot on which you intend to make your
permanent vegetable garden thoroughly "fitted," and grow there this
year a crop of potatoes or sweet corn, as suggested in Chapter IX. Then
next year you will have conditions just right to give your vegetables a
great start.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
There are other things of minor importance but worth considering, such
as the shape of your garden plot, for instance. The more nearly
rectangular, the more convenient it will be to work and the more easily
kept clean and neat. Have it large enough, or at least open on two ends,
so that a horse can be used in plowing and harrowing. And if by any
means you can have it within reach of an adequate supply of water, that
will be a tremendous help in seasons of protracted drought. Then again,
if you have ground enough, lay off two plots so that you can take
advantage of the practice of rotation, alternating grass, potatoes or corn
with the vegetable garden. Of course it is possible to practice crop
rotation to some extent within the limits of even the small vegetable
garden, but it will be much better, if possible, to rotate the entire
garden-patch.
All these things, then, one has to keep in mind in picking the spot best
suited for the home vegetable garden. It should be, if possible, of
convenient access; it should have a warm exposure and be well
enriched, well worked-up soil, not too light nor too heavy, and by all
means well drained. If it has been thoroughly cultivated for a year or
two previous, so much the better. If it is near a supply of water, so
situated that it can be at least plowed and harrowed with a horse, and
large enough to allow the garden proper to be shifted every other year
or two, still more the better.
Fill all of these requirements that you can, and then by taking full
advantage of the advantages you have, you can discount the
disadvantages. After all it is careful, persistent work, more than natural
advantages, that will tell the story; and a good garden does not grow--it
is made.
CHAPTER IV
THE PLANTING PLAN
Having selected the garden spot, the next consideration, naturally, is
what shall be planted in it.

The old way was to get a few seed catalogues, pick out a list of the
vegetables most enthusiastically described by the (wholly disinterested)
seedsman, and then, when the time came, to put them in at one or two
plantings, and sowing each kind as far as the seed would go. There is a
better way--a way to make the garden produce more, to yield things
when you want them, and in the proper proportions.
All these advantages, you may suppose, must mean more work. On the
contrary, however, the new way makes very much less work and makes
results a hundred per cent. more certain. It is not