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the solution, rinse in water containing a little ammonia to neutralize the irritating odor of the formaldehyde. Do not stand over the solution while mixing as the fumes of the formic acid affect the eyes. The condensed form in which this chemical can be carried and its cheapness (30c. per lb.), make it desirable as a temporary preservative. The saying, "It never rains but it pours," applies to the taxidermist and a sudden rush of subjects may often be saved by using the foregoing preparation. Other work may be under way, or for other reasons it may be desirable to keep a specimen in the flesh a short time before mounting.
ALCOHOLIC SOLUTION.
Alcohol (94% strength) Equal parts Water
If alcohol is less than 94% use less water. Use same as formaldehyde solution. This is said to be superior to the formaldehyde solution, though more expensive and harder to carry about on account of its greater bulk before mixing.
Specimens kept long in any liquid are apt to lose their colors. This fading will be reduced to a minimum if kept in the dark.
In order to do any satisfactory work on quadrupeds the taxidermist makes use of a bath or pickle of some sort for keeping skins in a wet state. This pickle sets the hair and in a measure tans the skin, reducing its liability to shrinkage and rendering it less desirable pasturage for insects.
All furred skins of any size should be immersed in this for a time before mounting, and may be kept in it for months or years without injury. If you have time to skin an animal properly the skin may be dropped in the pickle jar and in a day, week, or month be better fit for final mounting than at first.
For the first few days it is necessary to move it about every day so all parts may be exposed to the action of the pickle. The form of pickle which I have found most helpful is:
TANNING LIQUOR.
Water 1 gal. Salt 1 qt. Sulphuric acid (measure) 1 oz.
Bring to boiling point to dissolve the salt. Allow to cool before stirring in the acid. When cold is ready for use.
When keeping skins in a wet state a long time I would prefer to use:
SALT AND ALUM PICKLE.
Water 1 gal. Salt 1 qt. Alum 1 pt.
Boil to dissolve salt and alum; use like preceding.
If skins are to be kept some time they should, after a preliminary pickling, be put in new, fresh pickle and it should be occasionally tested with a salinometer and kept up to the original strength. Dirty and greasy pickle should be thrown away, but if clean and of low strength it can be brought up by adding new pickle of extra strength. It will do no hurt if more salt, even a saturated solution, is made of either of the foregoing.
While the salt and alum or acid pickle will keep our animal skins safely and in a relaxed condition ready for further preparation at any time, it will not answer for bird skins. For this we have a solution for keeping bird skins soft:
Glycerine 2 parts Carbolic acid 1 part
After skinning the bird and applying some arsenical solution to the inside, brush this solution liberally over the entire inside of the skin. Pay special attention to the bones, wing and leg, skull and root of the tail. If necessary the skin may be packed flat for shipment. One treatment will keep all but the larger skins soft for several months. The feet, of course, will become hard and dry and must be relaxed as usual before mounting.
Every taxidermist needs to be more or less of a modeler, and one of the most useful materials is:
PAPIER MACHE.
Wet wood pulp 10 oz. Glue (hot) or LePage's (measure) 3 oz. Plaster paris, dry 20 oz.
This formula may be varied at the convenience of the operator. Work the glue into the pulp and knead the plaster into the mass. The more glue the slower it sets and a few drops of glycerine will keep it soft several days. Made with little or no glue it hardens quickly.
If the paper pulp is not at hand it may be made by tearing old newspapers or sheathing paper small and boiling and pounding till a pulp results. This composition is much in use in Europe in the making of many familiar toys and similar objects.
For modeling open mouths, finishing mounted specimens, making artificial rocks, stumps and boughs, it is very desirable.
WAX FOR OPEN MOUTHS.
Beeswax 1 part Paraffin wax 1 part
Melt and color with tube oil colors. To color dip up a spoonful of melted wax, squeeze some tube color in and stir until stiff. Place the spoon in the hot wax and stir till evenly mixed. Do not try to put the color