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7 to 9 The smaller hawks and herons, nearly all the ducks. Number 10 to 12 The smaller owls, the wild goose. Number 12 to 14 The larger hawks and herons. Number 15 Screech owl, eagles. Number 17 Barred owl. Number 19 or 20 Snowy owl and great horned owl.
[Illustration: GLASS EYES FOR ANIMALS, BIRDS, FISH.]
Size of eyes for quadrupeds:
Number 7 or 8 Mink, skunk, red squirrel. Number 10 to 12 Gray and fox squirrel, wood chuck, raccoon and opossum. Number 12 to 14 Rabbit, small dogs, house cat. Number 15 to 17 Jack rabbit, fox, medium size dogs, wild cat, black bear. Number 18 Large dog, wolf, lynx, and grizzly bear. Number 20 to 22 Puma, jaguar, small deer. Number 23 to 24 Large deer, tiger. Number 25 to 27 Moose, elk, caribou, horse, cow, lion.
[Illustration: SIZES OF GLASS EYES.]
[Illustration: SIZES OF GLASS EYES (Style 1)]
Of wire the following sizes are suitable for birds:
Number 6 Pelican. Number 7 Wild turkey, swan. Number 8 Eagles. Number 9 Loon, goose, large herons. Number 10 Seagull, large ducks, hawks, owls, and fish hawk. Number 11 or 12 Medium size ducks, herons, and similar. Number 13 or 14 Small ducks and grouse. Number 15 Small herons, and medium owls. Number 16 Doves, small owls. Number 17 or 18 Bob white, jay, robin, snipe. Number 19 Blackbird, waxwing, oriole. Number 20 Bluebird, cardinal. Number 21 to 24 Warblers, wrens, titmouse, finches. Number 26 North American humming bird.
For quadrupeds:
Number 7 Wild cat. Number 8 Foxes. Number 10 Raccoon, wood chuck. Number 11 Skunk, opossum. Number 12 or 13 Muskrat, rabbit. Number 14 or 15 Mink, large squirrels. Number 17 or 18 Weasel, bull frog, and small squirrels.
These sizes are approximate, varying with size of the individual specimen and the required attitude wanted. For instance, a bird mounted with wings spread would be better for a large size wire than if in a resting position. An animal crouched does not require as heavy supports as one upright or in action. It is best to give the specimen the benefit of the doubt, as nothing is more disastrous than to have an otherwise well mounted subject sag down and spoil the entire effect from lack of sufficient mechanical support. The best wire for this purpose is annealed, galvanized iron. Larger animals require Norway iron rod in the following sizes:
1/4 in. Coyote, setter dog. 5/16 in. Wolf, puma. 3/8 in. Medium deer. 1/2 in. Caribou and large deer. 3/4 in. Moose, elk.
A large earthen jar or two will hold sufficient skin pickle for small animals. For large animals or great numbers of small ones a tank or barrel. Keep such jars or barrels covered to prevent evaporation. With dry arsenic and alum, arsenical solution, formaldehyde for an emergency and plenty of salt, even a beginner should be able to save almost anything that falls into his clutches.
There are numbers of reliable dealers in tools and supplies for the taxidermist and a perusal of their catalogs will be helpful, among the number being James P. Babbitt, 192 Hodges Ave., Taunton, Mass. Ready to use head forms, pinked rug and robe trimming, artificial tongues and ear forms, and even paper head and neck forms for the mounting of large game heads are some of the time and labor saving supplies they list. If you cannot attain to these, emergency supplies can be had of the dealer in hardware and dry goods, and one who cares for the art will rise superior to the material at his hand. What you "stuff 'em with" is of small consequence provided you use brains in the job. I have seen an elk head stuffed with old clothes with the bottoms of pop bottles for eyes, but would advise some other filling if possible.
CHAPTER III.
PRESERVATIVE PREPARATIONS, FORMULAS, ETC.
Probably arsenic in some form has been, and will continue to be the leading taxidermic preservative, or rather, insect deterrent. Many people are shy of handling this, but with reasonable care the use of arsenic is perfectly safe. Always keep poisons well labeled and out of the way of children. Nine children out of ten would never think of sampling them, but the tenth might prove the fatal exception.
There is far less danger to the operator in handling the needful amount of poisons than in endeavoring to save some rare but over-ripe subject. In many years' use of arsenic, dry, in wet solution, and in soap, I have received nothing more serious than an occasional sore finger.
The shape in which I have found it most satisfactory for poisoning hair and feathers of mounted specimens and the interior of furred skins I will give as
ARSENICAL SOLUTION.
Commercial arsenic 1 lb. Bicarbonate of soda 1/2 lb. Water 5 pts.
Boil until arsenic and soda have dissolved, stirring frequently. Use a vessel at