History of Phoenicia | Page 5

is a notable headland, and shelters a bay of some size; but
these once passed the old uniformity returns, the line being again
almost unbroken for a distance of seventy-five miles, from Haifa to
Beyrout (Berytus). North of Beyrout we find a little more variety. The
coast projects in a tolerably bold sweep between the thirty-fourth
parallel and Tripolis (Tarabulus) and recedes almost correspondingly
between Tripolis and Tortosa (Antaradus), so that a deepish bay is
formed between Lat. 34º 27´ and Lat. 34º 45´, whence the line again
runs northward unindented for fifty miles, to beyond Gabala (Jebili).
After this, between Gabala and Cape Posideium there is considerable
irregularity, the whole tract being mountainous, and spurs from
Bargylus and Casius running down into the sea and forming a
succession of headlands, of which Cape Posideium is the most
remarkable.

But while the name Phœnicia is applied geographically to this long
extent--nearly 400 miles--of coast-line, historically and ethnically it has
to be reduced within considerably narrower limits. A race, quite distinct
from that of the Phœnicians, was settled from an early date on the
southern portion of the west Asian coast, where it verges towards
Africa. From Jabneh (Yebna) southwards was Palestine, the country of
the Philistines, perhaps even from Joppa (Jaffa), which is made the
boundary by Mela.[3] Thus at least eighty miles of coast-line must be
deducted from the 380, and the length of Phœnicia along the
Mediterranean shore must be regarded as not exceeding three hundred
miles.
The width varied from eight or ten miles to thirty. We must regard as
the eastern boundary of Phœnicia the high ridge which forms the
watershed between the streams that flow eastward toward the Orontes,
Litany, and Jordan, and those that flow westward into the
Mediterranean. It is difficult to say what was the /average/ width, but
perhaps it may be fairly estimated at about fifteen miles. In this case the
entire area would have been about 4,500 square miles.
The tract was one of a remarkably diversified character. Lofty
mountain, steep wooded hill, chalky slope, rich alluvial plain, and
sandy shore succeeded each other, each having its own charm, which
was enhanced by contrast. The sand is confined to a comparatively
narrow strip along the seashore,[4] and to the sites of ancient harbours
now filled up. It is exceedingly fine and of excellent silicious quality,
especially in the vicinity of Sidon and at the foot of Mount Carmel. The
most remarkable plains are those of Sharon, Acre, Tyre, Sidon, Beyrout,
and Marathus. Sharon, so dear to the Hebrew poets,[5] is the maritime
tract intervening between the highland of Samaria and the
Mediterranean, extending from Joppa to the southern foot of Carmel--a
distance of nearly sixty miles--and watered by the Chorseas, the Kaneh,
and other rivers. It is a smooth, very slightly undulating tract, about ten
miles in width from the sea to the foot of the mountains, which rise up
abruptly from it without any intervening region of hills, and seem to
bound it as a wall, above which tower the huge rounded masses of Ebal
and Gerizim, with the wooded cone, on which stood Samaria, nestling

at their feet.[6] The sluggish streams, several of them containing water
during the whole of the year, make their way across it between reedy
banks,[7] and generally spread out before reaching the shore into wide
marshes, which might be easily utilised for purposes of irrigation. The
soil is extremely rich, varying from bright red to deep black, and
producing enormous crops of weeds or grain, according as it is
cultivated or left in a state of nature. Towards the south the view over
the region has been thus described: "From Ramleh there is a wide view
on every side, presenting a prospect rarely surpassed in richness and
beauty. I could liken it to nothing but the great plain of the Rhine by
Heidelberg or, better still, to the vast plains of Lombardy, as seen from
the cathedral of Milan and elsewhere. In the east the frowning
mountains of Judah rose abruptly from the tract at their foot; while on
the west, in fine contrast, the glittering waves of the Mediterranean Sea
associated our thoughts with Europe. Towards the north and south, as
far as the eye could reach, the beautiful plain was spread out like a
carpet at our feet, variegated with tracts of brown from which the crops
had just been taken, and with fields still rich with the yellow of the ripe
corn, or green with the springing millet. Immediately below us the eye
rested on the immense olive groves of Ramleh and Lydda, and the
picturesque towers and minarets and domes of these large villages. In
the plain itself were not many villages, but the tract of hills and the
mountain-side beyond,