Herzegovina | Page 3

the shore,' I apologise beforehand.
My fellow-passengers were in no way remarkable, but harmless enough,
even including an unfortunate mad woman, whose mania it was to
recount unceasingly the ill-treatment to which she had been exposed.
At times, her indignation against her imaginary tormentors knew no
bounds; at others, she would grow touchingly plaintive on the subject
of her wrongs. That she was a nuisance, I am fain to confess; but the
treatment she experienced at the hands of her Dalmatian countrymen
was inconsiderate in the extreme. One who professed himself an
advocate for sudden shocks, put his theory into practice by stealing
quietly behind his patient, and cutting short her lugubrious perorations
with a deluge of salt water. This was repeated several times, but no
arguments would induce her to allow her wet clothes to be removed, so
it would not be surprising if this gentleman had succeeded in 'stopping
her tongue' beyond his expectations. The only other lady was young
and rather pretty, but dismally sentimental. She doated on roses, was
enamoured of camelias, and loved the moon and the stars, and in fact
everything in this world or out of it. In vain I tried to persuade her that
her cough betrayed pulmonary symptoms, and that night air in the
Adriatic was injurious to the complexion.
The man-kind on board included an Austrian officer of engineers, a
French Consul, and a Dalmatian professor. Besides the above, there
was an Italian patriot, whose devotion to the 'Kingmaker' displayed
itself in a somewhat eccentric fashion. With much mystery, he showed
me a portrait of Garibaldi, secreted in a watchkey seal, while his
waistcoat buttons and shirt studs contained heads of those generals who
served in the campaign of the Two Sicilies. It was rather a novel kind
of hero-worship, though, I fear, likely to be little appreciated by him

who inspired the thought.
_September 1._--Landed at Zara at 6.30 A.M., and passed a few hours
in wandering over the town and ramparts. These last are by no means
formidable, and convey very little idea of the importance which was
attached to the city in the time of the Venetian Republic. The garrison
is small, and, as is the case throughout Dalmatia, the soldiers are of
Italian origin. The Duomo is worthy of a visit; while the antiquarian
may find many objects of interest indicative of the several phases of
Zarantine history. Here, in a partially obliterated inscription, he may
trace mementos of Imperial Rome; there, the Campanile of Santa Maria
tells of the dominion of Croatian kings; while the winged lion ever
reminds him of the glory of the Great Republic, its triumphs, its losses,
and its fall. On leaving we were loudly cheered by the inhabitants, who
had collected in large numbers on the shore. A few hours' run brought
us abreast of Fort St. Nicholas, and ten minutes later we dropped
anchor in the harbour of Sebenico. Here the delight of the people at our
arrival was somewhat overwhelming. It vented itself in an inordinate
amount of hugging and kissing, to say nothing of the most promiscuous
hand-shaking, for a share of which I myself came in. My first step was
to negotiate with four natives to row me to the Falls of Kerka, about
three hours distant. This I had succeeded in doing, when, having
unfortunately let them know that I was English, they demanded seven
florins in place of four, as had been originally agreed. Resolving not to
give way to so gross an imposition, I was returning in quest of another
boat, when I met a troop of some six or seven girls, young, more than
averagely good-looking, and charmingly dressed in their national
costume. I presume that my T.G. appearance must have amused them;
for they fairly laughed,--not a simpering titter, but a good honest laugh.
To them I stated my case, and received a proper amount of sympathy.
One offered to row me herself, while another said something about
'twenty florins and a life,'--which, whatever it may have meant, brought
a blush to the cheek of the pretty little volunteer. At this juncture the
boatmen arrived, and on my assurance that I was perfectly satisfied
with the company to which they had driven me, which my looks, I
suppose, did not belie, they came to terms. Leaving the bay at its NW.
extremity, where the Kerka flows into it, we proceeded about four

miles up that river. At this point it opens out into the Lake of Scardona,
which is of considerable size, and affords a good anchorage. There is
an outlet for the river to the N., close to which is situated the little town
of Scardona. The banks of the river here begin to lose their rocky and
precipitous appearance, assuming a