Head Hunters of the Amazon | Page 3

College
farm wagon on the day of my departure, having refused to work on so
memorable an occasion. But although the "Count" did not graduate at
the same time as I did, our two years together as members of the same
fraternity had sufficed to form a lasting friendship between us.
Furthermore, the long descriptions of the backwardness of his country
which he had given me from time to time, had fired me with a
determination to go there one day and equip the City of Quito with
some much-needed modern improvements. In those days, the streets of
the capital of Ecuador were lighted by means of candles placed by
householders in their front windows.
So I kept in touch with C—rdovez after I left College, and later he

came to see me at my house in Elmira, N. Y. There we finally decided
that I would go down to Ecuador as soon as he had had a chance of
examining the business possibilities of our proposed ventures, for
which he was to find the money and obtain the concessions on arrival
home. Then he left the States.
Thus it came about that in October, 1894, I received the following letter
asking me to confirm our agreement.
Quito.
September 30th.
1894.
Mr. Fritz W. Up de Graff.
Elmira, N. Y.
My dear Fritz,
You cannot imagine how glad I was to receive your letter. As I was in
Riobamba at the time it had reached this place, it did not come to my
hands but some days after.
Well, you are an electrical engineer now, are you? I thought you still
were engaged in the canning business over in Chicago, so I must
confess I was surprised when I read your letter proposing all sorts of
electrical business....,
Now I must let you know that life in the forests is not very enjoyable
and has a number of unpleasant things that are in connection with it. No
society is to be found there, no such amusements as shows and the like
either, and one can only be there to work, and if one is enterprising and
hard-working it is a sure thing to get a good remuneration after a time.
This country is composed of very indolent people, and I can assure you
that though there are no possibilities of making the fabulous fortunes
that are made in the States, yet it is much easier here than there to make

a handsome capital. The country is backward, very backward, and there
is an opening in almost every line. As I told you when in the States, the
climate of the interior is extremely pleasant and healthy, whilst that of
Guayaquil is unhealthy to most people, however I have been in perfect
health in both....
It is now your turn to decide. If you decide to come, it is better to do so
immediately, before Winter begins. Let me know at once the date of
your arrival in Guayaquil, and I will arrange so that you will have no
difficulties when you get there.
Hoping that I will see you soon, and that this finds you now in perfect
health,
I remain, yours in the bonds,
H. Domingo C—rdovez.
It did not take me long to come to a decision. Stanley's "Through the
Dark Continent" had inspired me as a boy with a determination to go
off into the Unknown World which lies beyond the confines of
civilization, offering a life brimful of adventure to him who would
penetrate its depths. Adventure! That was the keynote of my life, the
note to which my youthful, untamed spirit vibrated in sympathy. Here
was my chance, then. To South America, with its vast tracts of
unexplored territory, holding Heaven knows what strange secrets, I
would go.
On November 18th, 1894, I sailed from New York in the S.S. Advance,
of the old Ward Line, bound for Panama, via Colon, with $100 in my
pocket. In ten days we made the Colombian port, after a voyage which
was, I suppose, as uneventful as any other, but which was, for me, a
great adventure. I was on my way to my goal.
Colon struck me as being a town of turkey-buzzards and niggers. Both
turned out in large numbers to watch the arrival of the S.S. Advance. I
had not much of a chance to see the town, a mere collection of thatched
roofs grouped round the wooden wharves, half-hidden by the palms and

banana plants which grow in profusion. Situated in the middle of a
swamp, with muddy lanes for streets, and buzzards in place of sewers,
it was a wholly unattractive place.
I boarded a train on the landing-pier, and was taken across the Isthmus
in about two and a half hours, passing a series of