Handbook on Japanning: 2nd Edition | Page 9

lacquering in brasswork--it
looks very simple, but is not. Each succeeding coat of japan gives a
more uniform and glossy surface, and for this reason it may, in some
cases, be necessary to repeat the operation no fewer than half a dozen
times, the final coat being generally a layer of clear varnish only, to add
to the lustre.
Care must be taken for light-coloured japans or enamels not to have the
temperature sufficiently high to scorch, or the surface will be
discoloured, as they require a lower temperature for fixing than the
dark japans, which, provided the article is not likely to be injured by
the heat, are usually dried at a somewhat high temperature. The

preceding instructions apply only to the best descriptions of work.
When pouring enamel by means of the ladle over pieces of work, do
not agitate the liquid too much--at the same time taking care to keep it
well mixed--so as to form air bubbles, as this will cause trouble, and in
pouring over the work do it with an easy and gentle and not too hurried
a motion. In japanning curved pieces, such as mud-guards, etc., in
hanging up the work in the oven see that the liquid does not run to
extremities and there form ugly blots or blotches of enamel.
When white or other light tones are used for japanning they are mixed
with japanners' varnish, and these require more careful heating in the
oven or stove than darker tints or brown or black.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.--Trough for Dipping Bedstead Frames and other
Large Work.]
ENAMELLING BEDSTEAD FRAMES AND SIMILAR LARGE
PIECES.
At Fig. 1 is shown a trough in which large pieces, such as bedsteads,
bicycle frames, etc., are dipped or immersed. For the first-mentioned
class of work such high finish is not required as for bicycles, and
consequently the enamel need not be applied with a brush, nor will it be
necessary to rub down the work between each coat, but instead the
pieces can be literally dipped in the tank of liquid, then allowed to drain
on to the dripping-board--the superfluous enamel thus finding its way
back into the trough or tank, the dripped articles being afterwards
placed in the oven to harden. The trough must be of sufficient
dimensions to allow the pieces of work to be completely immersed, and
the dripping-board should be set at an angle of about 45°.
Bedstead frames will never require more than two coats and the
commoner class of goods only one. I would not advise the tradesman in
a small way of business to go to the expense of a trough, etc., as it calls
for much more room than is ordinarily available, but if he has the
necessary plant for bicycle work he can, of course, do an occasional job
of the other kind.
JAPANNING TIN, SUCH AS TEA-TRAYS AND SIMILAR GOODS.
For japanning sheet-iron articles, which are really tin goods, such as
tea-trays and similar things, first scour them well with a piece of
sandstone, which will effectually remove all the scales and make the
surface quite smooth. Then give the metal a coating of vegetable black,

which must be mixed with super black japan varnish, thinned with
turps, and well strained. Only a small quantity of this varnish is
necessary, as it will dry dead. The article must then be placed in the
stove to harden at a temperature of 212° F., there to remain for from ten
to twelve hours. When taken out of the stove, the articles must be
allowed to get cold, after which they must be given a coat of super
black japan, which, if necessary, must be thinned with turps, a stiff,
short bristle brush being employed, and the varnish put on sparingly, so
that it will not "run" when it gets warm. Two coats of this varnish on
top of the vegetable black coating are usually sufficient, when done
properly, but a third coating much improves the work, and from ten to
twelve hours' hardening will be necessary between each coating. The
small lumps which will be more or less certain to arise will require to
be rubbed down between each application by a small and smooth piece
of pumice-stone.
If it is desired to add gold or bronze bands or any kind of floral or other
kind of fancy decorations, these are painted on, after the ground
japanning has been done, in japanners' gold size, and then the gold leaf
is applied, or the bronze or other metal powder is dusted on, after which
the objects so treated are again placed in the stove, where they will not
require to be kept near so long as for ordinary japanning. After they
have been removed, the gilt or bronzed portions must be treated