was the soles that wore out first,
but I had to confess that my boots were being soled the second time
when my brother's were only being soled the first time, and that I wore
three soles out against his two. Of course both pairs of boots were quite
done at the conclusion of our walk.
Changes of clothing we were obliged to have sent on to us to some
railway station, to be afterwards arranged, and soiled clothes were to be
returned in the same box. This seemed a very simple arrangement, but
it did not work satisfactorily, as railways were few and there was no
parcel-post in those days, and then we were always so far from our base
that we were obliged to fix ourselves to call at places we did not
particularly want to see and to miss others that we would much rather
have visited. Another objection was that we nearly always arrived at
these stations at inconvenient times for changing suits of clothes, and as
we were obliged to do this quickly, as we had no time to make a long
stay, we had to resort to some amusing devices.
We ought to have begun our journey much earlier in the year. One
thing after another, however, prevented us making a start, and it was
not until the close of some festivities on the evening of September 6th,
1871, that we were able to bid farewell to "Home, sweet home" and to
journey through what was to us an unknown country, and without any
definite idea of the distance we were about to travel or the length of
time we should be away.
HOW WE GOT TO JOHN O' GROAT'S
Sept. 7. Warrington to Glasgow by train--Arrived too late to catch the
boat on the Caledonian Canal for Iverness--Trained to Aberdeen.
Sept. 8. A day in the "Granite City"--Boarded the s.s. St. Magnus
intending to land at Wick--Decided to remain on board.
Sept. 9. Landed for a short time at Kirkwall in the Orkney
Islands--During the night encountered a storm in the North Sea.
Sept. 10. (Sunday). Arrived at Lerwick in the Shetland Islands at 2 a.m.
Sept. 11. Visited Bressay Island and the Holm of Noss--Returned to St.
Magnus at night.
Sept. 12. Landed again at Kirkwall--Explored Cathedral--Walked
across the Mainland of the Orkneys to Stromness, visiting the
underground house at Maeshowe and the Standing Stones at Stenness
on our way.
Sept. 13. Visited the Quarries where Hugh Miller made his wonderful
geological researches--Explored coast scenery, including the Black
Craig.
Sept. 14. Crossed the Pentland Firth in a sloop--Unfavourable wind
prevented us sailing past the Old Man of Hoy, so went by way of Lang
Hope and Scrabster Roads, passing Dunnet Head on our way to Thurso,
where we landed and stopped for the night.
Sept. 15. Travelled six miles by the Wick coach and walked the
remaining fifteen miles to John o' Groat's--Lodged at the "Huna Inn."
Sept. 16. Gathered some wonderful shells on the beach and explored
coast scenery at Duncansbay.
Sept. 17. (Sunday). Visited a distant kirk with the landlord and his wife
and listened to a wonderful sermon.
OUR ROUTE FROM JOHN O' GROAT'S TO LAND'S END
¶ Indicates the day's journey. ¶¶ Indicates where Sunday was spent.
FIRST WEEK'S JOURNEY--Sept. 18 to 24.
"Huna Inn"--Canisbay--Bucholie
Castle--Keiss--Girnigoe--Sinclair--Noss Head--Wick--or ¶ Wick
Harbour--Mid Clyth--Lybster--Dunbeath ¶
Berriedale--Braemore--Maidens Paps Mountain--Lord Galloway's
Hunting-box--Ord of Caithness--Helmsdale ¶ Loth--Brora--Dunrobin
Castle--Golspie ¶ The Mound--Loch Buidhee--Bonar Bridge--Dornoch
Firth--Half-way House [Aultnamain Inn] ¶ Novar--Cromarty
Firth--Dingwall--Muir of Ord--Beauly--Bogroy Inn--Inverness ¶¶ pp.
41-76
SECOND WEEK'S JOURNEY--Sept. 25 to Oct. 1.
Tomnahurich--Loch Ness--Caledonian Canal--Drumnadrochit ¶
Urquhart Castle--Invermoriston--Glenmoriston--Fort
Augustus--Invergarry ¶ Glengarry--Well of the Heads--Loggan
Bridge--Loch Lochy--Spean Bridge--Fort William ¶ Inverlochy
Castle--Ben Nevis--Fort William ¶ Loch Linnhe--Loch Leven--Devil's
Stair--Pass of Glencoe--Clachaig Inn ¶ Glencoe
Village--Ballachulish--Kingshouse--Inveroran--Loch Tulla--Bridge of
Orchy--Glen Orchy ¶ Dalmally ¶¶ pp. 77-111
THIRD WEEK'S JOURNEY--Oct. 2 to Oct. 8.
Loch Awe--Cruachan Mountain--Glen Aray--Inverary
Castle--Inverary--Loch Fyne--Cairndow Inn ¶ Glen Kinglas--Loch
Restil--Rest and be Thankful--Glen Croe--Ben Arthur--Loch
Long--Arrochar--Tarbet--Loch Lomond--Luss--Helensburgh ¶ The
Clyde--Dumbarton--Renton--Alexandria--Balloch--Kilmaronock--Dry
men ¶ Buchlyvie--Kippen--Gargunnock--Windings of the
Forth--Stirling ¶ Wallace Monument--Cambuskenneth--St.
Ninians--Bannockburn--Carron--Falkirk ¶
Laurieston--Polmont--Linlithgow--Edinburgh ¶¶ pp. 112-157
FOURTH WEEK'S JOURNEY--Oct. 9 to Oct. 15.
Craigmillar--Rosslyn--Glencorse--Penicuik--Edleston--Cringletie--Pee
bles ¶ River Tweed--Horsburgh--Innerleithen--Traquair--Elibank
Castle--Galashiels--Abbotsford--Melrose--Lilliesleaf ¶ Teviot
Dale--Hassendean--Minto--Hawick--Goldielands Tower--Branxholm
Tower--Teviothead--Caerlanrig--Mosspaul Inn--Langholm--Gilnockie
Tower--Canonbie Colliery ¶ River Esk--"Cross Keys Inn"--Scotch
Dyke--Longtown ¶ Solway Moss--River Sark--Springfield--Gretna
Green--Todhills--Kingstown--Carlisle--Wigton--Aspatria ¶
Maryport--Cockermouth--Bassenthwaite Lake--Portinscale--Keswick
¶¶ pp. 158-232
FIFTH WEEK'S JOURNEY--Oct 16 to Oct. 22.
Falls of Lodore--Derwentwater--Bowder Stone--Borrowdale--Green
Nip--Wythburn--Grasmere ¶
Rydal--Ambleside--Windermere--Hawkshead--Coniston--Ulverston ¶
Dalton-in-Furness--Furness Abbey--Barrow Monument--Haverthwaite
¶ Newby Bridge--Cartmel Fell--Kendal ¶ Kirkby Lonsdale--Devil's
Bridge--Ingleton--Giggleswick--Settle--Malham ¶ Malham
Cove--Gordale Scar--Kilnsey--River
Wharfe--Grassington--Greenhow--Pateley Bridge ¶¶ pp. 233-277
SIXTH WEEK'S JOURNEY--Oct. 23 to Oct. 29.
Brimham Rocks--Fountains Abbey--Ripon--Boroughbridge--Devil's
Arrows--Aldeborough ¶ Marston Moor--River Ouse--York ¶
Tadcaster--Towton Field--Sherburn-in-Elmet--River
Aire--Ferrybridge--Pontefract ¶ Robin Hood's Well--Doncaster ¶
Conisborough--Rotherham ¶ Attercliffe
Common--Sheffield--Norton--Hathersage--Little John's
Grave--Castleton ¶¶ pp. 278-339
SEVENTH WEEK'S JOURNEY--Oct. 30 to Nov. 5.
Castleton--Tideswell--Miller's Dale--Flagg
Moor--Newhaven--Tissington--Ashbourne ¶ River
Dove--Mayfield--Ellastone--Alton Towers--Uttoxeter--Bagot's
Wood--Needwood
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