From Edinburgh to India Burmah | Page 3

and live stock -- On the Road -- From Bhamo to the back parts of China -- The first Rest-House. 343-347
CHAP. XXXV
Kalychet -- A mid-day halt and Mahseer fishing -- Views in the Kachin Highland Forests -- Rivers -- "Seven bens and seven glens" -- Caravans on the track -- The Taiping river -- A Spate -- Fishing 348-357
CHAP. XXXVI
"On the Water" continued -- Nampoung -- The edge of the Empire -- Six to seven thousand feet up, and cold at night. 358-362
CHAP. XXXVII
Nampoung river -- A fish in the bag, a cup, and a pipe, by the river side -- We wade into China -- Meet the Chinese army and wade back -- Another cast in the Taiping -- "G" collects many orchids -- From Kalychet to Momouk -- Riding in the sun in the morning and back to the plains alas! A pleasant evening with the Military Police. A study of a Kachin beauty, and of an average type of Upper Burmese girl -- Good-bye Bhamo -- Paddling down the Irrawaddy -- More river-side notes -- A.1. shooting, to the writer's mind -- The Luxury of a Cargo Boat of the Flotilla Company -- Deep Sea Chanties, and Mandalay again. 363-379
CHAP. XXXVIII
We drop from the comfort of the Cargo Steamer to the comparative discomfort of the train at Rangoon -- Another plaguey inspection -- Another joyous embarkation on another B.I. Boat -- Calcutta -- Benares and its Ghats; after the Golden Beauty of Burmah! -- Street scenes and riverside horrors -- A muddle of indecencies and religions -- A superior Fakir's portrait -- 333,000,000 gods -- An artist's private deductions -- Les Indes sans le British -- Delhi and Agra. 380-391
CHAP. XXXIX
India generally speaking, as a preamble to several pages about Black Buck shooting.
The Taj Mahal not described -- Sha Jehans portrait. 392-401

LIST OF COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS BY AUTHOR AND "G."
By Author
Ayah and Child Frontispiece A Glimpse of the North Sea to face page 4 Piccadilly Circus, by Night 8 A Spanish Woman 26 A Café, Port Said 44 Aden, and Fan-sellers 58 Waiting for Carriages after Reception at 79 Government House, Bombay Lord Minto's Landing in India 92 A Reception in Government House, Bombay. 98 Sailing from Elephanta 111 An Indian Tank 151 A Street Corner, Bangalore 171 Entrance to the Shwey Dagon Pagoda, Rangoon 237 H.R.H. Prince and Princess of Wales 249 landing at the Boat Club, Rangoon A Burmese Harpist 284 A Priests' Bathing Pool 302 A Chinese Joss House 324 A Kachin Girl 370 A Girl of Upper Burmah 372 A Fakir at Benares 387 A Delhi Street Scene 390
Illustrations by "G."
A Sacred Lake near Rangoon 244 Sunset on the Irrawaddy 251 Mid-day on the Irrawaddy, distant Ruby Mountains 298
CHAPTER I
[Illustration]
Some time ago I wrote a book about a voyage in a whaler to the far south, to a white, silent land where the sun shines all day and night and it is quiet as the grave and beautiful as heaven--when it is not blowing and black as--the other place! A number of people said they liked it, and asked me to write again; therefore these notes and sketches on a Journey to India and Burmah. They may not be so interesting as notes about Antarctic adventure and jolly old Shell Backs and South Spainers on a whaler; but one journal ought at least, to be a contrast to the other. The first, a voyage on a tiny wooden ship with a menu of salt beef, biscuit, and penguin, to unsailed seas and uninhabited ice-bound lands; the other, in a floating hotel, with complicated meals, and crowds of passengers, to a hot land with innumerable inhabitants.
I trust that the sketches I make on the way will help out my notes when they are not quite King's-English, and that the notes will help to explain the sketches if they are not sufficiently academical for the general reader, and moreover, I fondly believe that any journal written in the East in these years of grace 1905-6, must catch a little reflected interest from the historic visit of their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales to India and Burmah.
Edinburgh is our point of departure; the date 13th Oct. and the hour 10 P.M. All journeys seem to me to begin in Edinburgh, from the moment my baggage is on the dickey and the word "Waverley" is given to the cabby. On this occasion we have three cabs, and a pile of baggage, for six months clothing for hot and cold places, and sketching, shooting, and fishing things take space. I trundle down to the station in advance with the luggage, and leave G. and her maid to follow, and thus miss the tearful parting with domestics in our marble halls.... Good-bye Auld Reekie, good-bye. Parting with