French Polishing and Enamelling | Page 9

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several times doubled, the work being placed so that a good light falls upon it. All thin

panelling should be tacked down upon a board by the edges while polishing.
=Filling-in.=--The first process the wood usually undergoes is "filling-in." This consists
in rubbing into the pores of the wood Russian tallow and plaster of Paris, which have
been previously heated and mixed together so as to form a thick paste. For rosewood, or
to darken mahogany, a little rose-pink should be added. After well rubbing in, the surface
should be cleared from all the surplus paste with the end of the scraper, and then rubbed
off with shavings or old rags, and made quite clean. For birch or oak, some use whiting or
soft putty moistened with linseed-oil for the filling; this preparation prevents in a great
measure the rising of the grain. For white delicate woods, such as sycamore, maple, or
satin-wood, plaster of Paris, mixed with methylated spirit, is used. When polishing pine, a
coat of Young's patent size (2d. per lb.) is used instead of the above mixtures, and when
dry is rubbed down with fine glass-paper.
Some workmen, who regard their modes of filling-in as important secrets, do their work
surprisingly quick by the methods here given. The various processes are soon acquired by
a little practice, and contribute greatly to the speedy advancement of a smooth and
imporous ground, which is the most important point to observe in polishing.
=Applying the Polish.=--In commencing to use the polish some are provided with a small
earthenware dish, into which the polish is poured for wetting the rubbers; while others
make a slit in the cork of the polish bottle, and so let it drip on to the rubber; whichever
method is adopted, the rubber should not be saturated, but receive just enough to make a
smear. Every time after wetting the rubber and putting on the cover it should be pressed
upon the palm of the hand, or if a small rubber it can be tested between the thumb and
finger. This is an important operation, for by it the polisher can easily tell the exact state
of moisture, and at the same time, by the pressure being applied, the moisture is equalised.
The tip of the finger should then be just dipped into the linseed-oil, and applied to the
face of it; if the rubber should be rather sappy, the greatest care must be used or a coarse
streaky roughness will be produced; extreme lightness of hand is required until the rubber
is nearly dry. (It would be a serious error to bear heavily on the rubber while the surface
is moist; to do so, and to use too much oil on the rubber, are the causes of many failures
in polishing.)
In commencing to work, pass the rubber a few times gently and lightly over the surface in
the direction of the grain; then rub across the grain in a series of circular movements, all
one way, in full and free sweeping strokes, until the rubber is dry. Continue this operation
until the pores are filled in, and the surface assumes a satisfactory appearance. It should
then be left for about twelve hours; the polish will be well into the wood by that time.
The polish should then be carefully rubbed down with No. glass-paper; this will remove
the atomic roughness usually caused by the rising of the grain during the sinking period.
In flat-surface work a paper cork can be used, and the rubbing lightly and regularly done
in a careful manner, so as to avoid rubbing through the outer skin, especially at the edges
and corners, or the work will be irremediably defaced.
The woods which possess a rising grain are well known to polishers; these are the
light-coloured woods with a coarse grain, viz., ash, birch, and oak. This rising of the

grain can in a great measure be prevented by passing a damp sponge over the work before
commencing the polishing, allowing it to dry, and papering it. After the rubbing or
smoothing-down process is finished, the work should be well dusted; the polishing can
then recommence. The above operation must be again repeated with a rotary motion and
gradually increased pressure as the rubber gets dry, and finished by lighter rubbings the
way of the grain; this will remove any slight marks that may be occasioned by the
circular movements of the rubber.
Working too long on any one part is to be avoided, nor should the rubber be allowed to
stick even for an instant, or it will pull the coating of polish off to the bare wood. The
rubber should be covered with a clean part of the rag as soon as a shiny appearance
becomes apparent upon it,