madder, and ammoniacal solutions of
carmine.
=Imitation Purple-wood Stain.=--Grind a piece of green copperas on coarse glass-paper,
and mix with polish coloured with red-sanders. This makes a capital purple stain, and is
used by French cabinet-makers.
These dyestuffs may be much improved by the addition of a mordant applied after they
are dry; this will greatly assist in modifying and fixing the tints and shades which the
dyes impart. The best thing for the purpose, in the writer's opinion, is clear ox-gall, which,
besides being useful as a mordant, will destroy all unctuous matter.
=Chemicals used in Staining.=--It may perhaps be useful here to give the common or
popular names of the chemicals employed in the operations of staining and imitating, as
few polishers know them by the scientific names used by chemists:--
Nitric acid is but another phrase for aquafortis. Sulphuric acid, for oil of vitriol.
Ammonia, for spirits of hartshorn. Sulphate of magnesia, for Epsom salts. Nitrate of
potass, for sal prunelle. Chlorine, for aqua regia. Sulphate of copper, for blue vitriol.
Subborate of soda, for borax. Superoxalate of potass, for salts of sorrel. Hydrochlorate of
ammonia, for sal ammoniac. Subnitrate of bismuth, for flake white. Acetic acid, for
vinegar. Acetate of lead, for sugar of lead. Sulphate of lime, for gypsum. Carbonate of
potass, for pearlash. Bitartrate of potass, for cream of tartar. Nitrate of silver, for lunar
caustic. Supercarbonate of iron, for plumbago. Cyanide of iron, for Prussian blue.
Subacetate of copper, for common verdigris. Susquecarbonate of ammonia, for sal
volatile. Alcohol, for pure spirit. Sulphate of iron, for green copperas. Sulphate of zinc,
for white copperas.
=Process of Staining.=--The natural qualities of woods are very variable; so also are the
textures of the different sorts usually used for staining. It will be readily perceived that
there is no fixed principle upon which certain peculiar tints or shades can be produced
with any degree of certainty. In order to arrive at the best results, the stainer is
recommended to observe the following rules:--
All dry stuffs are best reduced to powder, when it is possible, before macerating or
dissolving them.
All liquids should be strained or filtered before use.
The requisite ingredients should always be tested before a free use is made of them, as
the effect produced by a coat of stain cannot be accurately ascertained until it is
thoroughly dry.
Amateurs in staining had far better coat twice or thrice with a weak stain than apply a
strong one; for if too dark a tint is first obtained it is often irremediable. Flat surfaces will
take stain more evenly if a small portion of linseed-oil is first wiped over, well rubbed off,
and allowed to dry, then lightly papered down with fine glass-paper. End-way wood
which is of a spongy nature should first have a coat of thin varnish, and when dry well
glass-papered off. For applying stain a flat hog-hair tool is the best; and for a
softener-down a badger-hair tool is used. For mahogany shades and tints a mottler will be
found of service, as will also a soft piece of Turkey sponge. For oak, the usual steel
graining-comb is employed for the streaking, and for veining badger sash-tools and sable
pencils.
=Ready-made Wood Stains.=--There are numerous stains suitable for common work in
the market obtainable at a small cost by residents in London, but it is cheaper for those
who reside in country towns to make their own, if only a small quantity is required. The
principal makers of wood stains are H. C. Stephens, of 191, Aldersgate-street, E.C., and
Jackson, 213, Union-street, Southwark, S.E. These makers prepare stains in a liquid state,
and also in powders for oak, walnut, mahogany, satin-wood, ebony, and rosewood. The
powders are sold in packages at 8s. per lb. or 1s. for two ounces, and are soluble in
boiling water. Judson, of 77, Southwark-street, S.E., makes a mahogany powder in
sixpenny packets, and any reliable oilman will sell a good black stain at 8d. per quart, or
a superior black stain at 1s. 2d. per quart. Fox, of 109, Bethnal Green-road, also prepares
stains in a liquid state.
CHAPTER III.
FRENCH POLISHING.
=The Polish Used.=--The oil or wax polish was used for all kinds of furniture before the
introduction of French polish, the invention of which, as its name implies, is due to
French cabinet-makers. It was first introduced into England about seventy years since;
some time elapsed, however, before it was brought to a high state of perfection. At first
apprentices or porters were entrusted with the polishing, they having been usually called
upon to do the wax polishing; but in course of time it was found that its successful
adoption implied the possession of considerable skill, and it came to be regarded as an art
Continue reading on your phone by scaning this QR Code
Tip: The current page has been bookmarked automatically. If you wish to continue reading later, just open the
Dertz Homepage, and click on the 'continue reading' link at the bottom of the page.