Florence and Northern Tuscany with Genoa

衪Florence and Northern Tuscany with Genoa

The Project Gutenberg EBook of Florence and Northern Tuscany with Genoa
by Edward Hutton This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
Title: Florence and Northern Tuscany with Genoa With Sixteen Illustrations In Colour By William Parkinson And Sixteen Other Illustrations, Second Edition
Author: Edward Hutton
Release Date: August 8, 2005 [EBook #16477]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FLORENCE ***

Produced by Ted Garvin, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net

FLORENCE
AND NORTHERN TUSCANY
WITH GENOA
BY EDWARD HUTTON
* * * * *
O rosa delle rose, O rosa bella, Per te non dormo nè notte nè giorno, E sempre penso alla tua faccia bella, Alle grazie che hai, faccio ritorno. Faccio ritorno alle grazie che hai: Ch'io ti lasci, amor mio, non creder mai.
WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY WILLIAM PARKINSON AND SIXTEEN OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS
SECOND EDITION
LONDON, 1907, 1908
* * * * *
TO MY FRIEND WILLIAM HEYWOOD
BY THE SAME AUTHOR
FREDERIC UVEDALE: A ROMANCE STUDIES IN THE LIVES OF THE SAINTS ITALY AND THE ITALIANS THE CITIES OF UMBRIA THE CITIES OF SPAIN SIGISMONDO MALATESTA COUNTRY WALKS ROUND FLORENCE. (_In the Press_). ROME. (_In preparation_)
* * * * *
[Illustration: FROM THE UFFIZI]
* * * * *

CONTENTS
I. GENOA II. ON THE WAY III. PORTO VENERE IV. SARZANA AND LUNA V. CARRARA, MASSA DUCALE, PIETRA-SANTA, VIAREGGIO VI. PISA VII. LIVORNO VIII. TO SAN MINIATO AL TEDESCO IX. EMPOLI, MONTELUPO, LASTRA, SIGNA X. FLORENCE XI. PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO XII. THE BAPTISTERY--THE DUOMO--THE CAMPANILE--THE OPERA DEL DUOMO XIII. OR SAN MICHELE XIV. PALAZZO RICCARDI, AND THE RISE OF THE MEDICI XV. SAN MARCO AND SAVONAROLA XVI. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA XVII. SANTA CROCE XVIII. SAN LORENZO XIX. CHURCHES NORTH OF ARNO XX. OLTR'ARNO XXI. THE BARGELLO XXII. THE ACCADEMIA XXIII. THE UFFIZI XXIV. THE PITTI GALLERY XXV. FIESOLE AND SETTIGNANO XXVI. VALLOMBROSA AND THE CASENTINO XXVII. PRATO XXVIII. PISTOJA XXIX. LUCCA XXX. OVER THE GARFAGNANA

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN COLOUR
VIEW FROM THE UFFIZI ON THE ROAD BADIA A SETTIMO PONTE VECCHIO LOGGIA DE' LANZI PIAZZA DEL DUOMO OR SAN MICHELE THE FLOWER MARKET, FLORENCE CHIOSTRO DI S. MARCO S. MARIA NOVELLA OGNISSANTI VIA GUICCIARDINI PONTE VECCHIO THE BOBOLI GARDENS COSTA DI S. GIORGIO OUTSIDE THE GATE
IN MONOTONE
PORTO VENERE PISA WAX MODEL FOR THE PERSEUS IN THE BARGELLO, BENVENUTO CELLINI THE MADONNA DELLA CINTOLA, BY NANNI DI BANCO, DUOMO, FLORENCE SINGING BOYS FROM THE CANTORIA OF LUCA DELLA ROBBIA, OPERA DEL DUOMO, FLORENCE THE CRUCIFIXION, BY FRA ANGELICO, S. MARCO, FLORENCE ST. JOHN THE DIVINE, BY DONATELLO, DUOMO, FLORENCE THE LADY WITH THE NOSEGAY (VANNA TORNABUONI), IN THE BARGELLO, BY ANDREA VERROCCHIO "LA NOTTE," FROM TOMB OF GIULIANO DE' MEDICI, BY MICHELANGELO THE ADORATION OF THE SHEPHERDS, BY DOMENICO GHIRLANDAJO, ACCADEMIA THE THREE GRACES, FROM THE PRIMAVERA, BY SANDRO BOTTICELLI, ACCADEMIA THE BIRTH OF VENUS, BY SANDRO BOTTICELLI, UFFIZI GALLERY THE ANNUNCIATION, BY ANDREA VERROCCHIO, UFFIZI GALLERY PIETà, BY FRA BARTOLOMMEO, PITTI GALLERY THE TOMB OF ILARIA DEL CARETTO, BY JACOPO DELLA QUERCIA, DUOMO, LUCCA THE TOMB OF THE MARTYR S. ROMANO IN S. ROMANO, LUCCA, BY MATTEO CIVITALI
[Illustration: A MAP OF THE CITIES OF NORTHERN TUSCANY]
* * * * *

I. GENOA
I
The traveller who on his way to Italy passes along the Riviera di Ponente, through Marseilles, Nice, and Mentone to Ventimiglia, or crossing the Alps touches Italian soil, though scarcely Italy indeed, at Turin, on coming to Genoa finds himself really at last in the South, the true South, of which Genoa la Superba is the gate, her narrow streets, the various life of her port, her picturesque colour and dirt, her immense palaces of precious marbles, her oranges and pomegranates and lemons, her armsful of children, and above all the sun, which lends an eternal gladness to all these characteristic or delightful things, telling him at once that the North is far behind, that even Cisalpine Gaul is crossed and done with, and that here at last by the waves of that old and great sea is the true Italy, that beloved and ancient land to which we owe almost everything that is precious and valuable in our lives, and in which still, if we be young, we may find all our dreams. What to us are the weary miles of Eastern France if we come by road, the dreadful tunnels full of despair and filth if we come by rail, now that we have at last returned to her, or best of all, perhaps, found her for the first time in the spring at twenty-one or so, like a fair woman forlorn upon the mountains, the Ariadne of our race who placed in our hand