First Impressions of the New World | Page 2

to Columbus.--Fire in the Mountains.--Mr.
Tyson's Stories.--Columbus.--Penitentiary.--Capitol--Governor
Chase.--Charitable Institutions.--Arrival at Cincinnati 168
LETTER X.
Cincinnati.--Mr. Longworth.--German Population.--"Over the
Rhine."--Environs of Cincinnati.--Gardens.--Fruits.--Common
Schools.--Journey to St. Louis 202
LETTER XI.
St. Louis.--Jefferson City.--Return to St. Louis.--Alton.--
Springfield.--Fires on the Prairies.--Chicago--Granaries.--Packing
Houses.--Lake Michigan.--Arrival at Indianapolis 224
LETTER XII.
Indianapolis.--Louisville.--Louisville and Portland Canal.--
Portland.--The Pacific Steamer.--Journey to Lexington.--Ashland.--
Slave Pens at Lexington.--Return to Cincinnati.--Pennsylvania Central

Railway.--Return to New York 239
LETTER XIII.
New York.--Astor Library.--Cooper Institute.--Bible House.--Dr.
Rae.--Dr. Tyng.--Tarrytown.--Albany.--Sleighing.--Final Return to
Boston.--Halifax.--Voyage Home.--Conclusion 279
* * * * *
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
OF
THE NEW WORLD.
* * * * *

LETTER I.
VOYAGE.--ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK.--BURNING OF
QUARANTINE BUILDINGS.--CABLE
REJOICINGS.--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN.
New York, September 3, 1858.
We landed here yesterday afternoon, at about six o'clock, after a very
prosperous voyage; and, as the Southampton mail goes to-morrow, I
must begin this letter to you to-night. I had fully intended writing to
you daily during the voyage, but I was quite laid up for the first week
with violent sea sickness, living upon water-gruel and chicken-broth. I
believe I was the greatest sufferer in this respect on board; but the
doctor was most attentive, and a change in the weather came to my
relief on Sunday,--not that we had any rough weather, but there was
rather more motion than suited me at first.
Papa and William were well throughout the voyage, eating and

drinking and walking on deck all day. Our companions were chiefly
Americans, and many of them were very agreeable and intelligent.
Amongst the number I may mention the poet Bryant, who was
returning home with his wife and daughter after a long visit to Europe;
but they, too, have suffered much from sea sickness, and, as this is a
great bar to all intercourse, I had not as much with them as I could have
wished.
The north coast of Ireland delighted us much on our first Sunday. We
passed green hills and high cliffs on our left, while we could see the
distant outline of the Mull of Cantire, in Scotland, on our right. We had
no service on that Sunday, but on the one following we had two
services, which were read by the doctor; and we had two good sermons
from two dissenting ministers. The second was preached by a Wesleyan
from Nova Scotia, who was familiar with my father's name there. He
was a good and superior man, and we had some interesting
conversations with him.
We saw no icebergs, which disappointed me much; but we passed a
few whales last Tuesday, spouting up their graceful fountains in the
distance. One came very near the ship, and we had a distinct view of its
enormous body. We had a good deal of fog when off Newfoundland,
which obliged us to use the fog-whistle frequently; and a most dismal
sounding instrument it is. The fog prevented our having any
communication with Cape Race, from whence a boat would otherwise
have come off to receive the latest news from England, and our arrival
would have been telegraphed to New York.
The coast of Long Island came in sight yesterday, and our excitement
was naturally great as we approached the American shore.
Before rounding Sandy Hook, which forms the entrance on one side to
the bay of New York, we ran along the eastern coast of Long Island,
which presents nothing very remarkable in appearance, although the
pretty little bright town of Rockaway, with its white houses studded
along the beach, and glittering in the sun, gave a pleasing impression of
the country. This was greatly increased when, running up the bay, we
came to what are called the Narrows, and had Staten Island on our left

and Long Island on the right. The former, something like the Isle of
Wight in appearance, is a thickly-wooded hill covered with pretty
country villas, and the Americans were unceasing in their demands for
admiration of the scenery.[1]
Before entering the Narrows, indeed shortly after passing Sandy Hook,
a little boat with a yellow flag came from the quarantine station to see
if we were free from yellow fever and other disorders. There were
many ships from the West Indies performing quarantine, but we were
happily exempted, being all well on board. It was getting dark when we
reached the wharf; and, after taking leave of our passenger friends, we
landed, and proceeded to an adjoining custom-house, where, through
the influence of one of our fellow-passengers, our boxes were not
opened, but it was a scene of great bustle and confusion. After much
delay we were at length hoisted into a wonderful old coach, apparently
of the date of Queen Anne. We made a struggle with the driver not to
take in more than our own party. Up, however, others mounted, and on
we