Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879 | Page 7

Convention. If Cyprus had been presented as a "bonus"
by the Porte to counterbalance the risk we should incur in a defensive
alliance for the protection of Asia Minor, I could have seen an addition
to our Colonial Empire of a valuable island, that would not only have
been of strategical value, but such that in a few years, money and
British settlers would have entirely changed its present aspect, and have
created for it a new era of prosperity.
If England had purchased Cyprus, I could have understood the plain,
straightforward, business-like transaction, which would have at once
established confidence, both among the inhabitants, who would have
become British subjects; and through the outer world, that would have
acknowledged the commencement of a great future.
But, if we were actually bound in defensive alliance with Turkey in
case of a war with Russia, why should we occupy Cyprus upon such
one-sided and anomalous conditions, that would frustrate all hopes of
commercial development, for the sake of obtaining a strategical
position that would have been opened to our occupation AS AN ALLY
at any moment? On the other hand, if we distrusted Turkey, and feared
that she might coquet with Russia at some future period, I could see a
paramount necessity for the occupation of Cyprus, and even Egypt; but
we were supposed to be, and I believe were, acting in absolute and
mutual good faith as the protector of Asiatic Turkey, in defensive
alliance with the Sultan. In that position, should we have entered into a
war with Russia, there was no necessity for the occupation and
responsibility of any new position, as every port of the Ottoman

dominions, even to the Golden Horn of Constantinople, would have
welcomed our troops and boats with enthusiasm.
Turkey is a suspicious Power, and the British government may have
had to contend with difficulties that are unknown to the criticising
public; it may have been impossible to have obtained her sanction for
the occupation under other conditions. The possibility of future
complications that might terminate in a close alliance between the
conquered and the victor, may have suggested the necessity for
securing this most important strategical position without delay, upon
first conditions that might subsequently receive modifications. At first
sight the political situation appeared vague, but I determined to
examine the physical geography of Cyprus, and to form my own
opinion of its capabilities.

CYPRUS AS I SAW IT IN 1879.
CHAPTER 1.
ARRIVAL AT LARNACA.
On the morning of the 4th January we sighted Cyprus at about fifty
miles distance, after a smooth voyage of twenty-six hours from
Alexandria. The day was favourable for an arrival, as the atmospherical
condition afforded both intense lights and shadows. The sky was a
cobalt blue, but upon all points of the compass local rain-clouds
hovered in dark patches near the surface, and emptied themselves in
heavy showers. The air was extremely clear, and as we steamed at ten
knots each hour brought out in prominent relief the mountain peaks of
Cyprus; Olympus was capped with clouds. Passing through a
rain-cloud which for a time obscured the view, we at length emerged
into bright sunshine; the mists had cleared from the mountain range,
and Troodos, 6,400 feet above the sea-level, towered above all
competitors.
We were now about ten miles from the shore, and the general

appearance of the island suggested a recent snowfall. As the sun shone
upon a bare white surface, the sterile slopes and mountain sides were
utterly devoid of vegetation, and presented a sad aspect of desolation,
which reminded me of the barren range on the shores of the Red Sea.
First impressions are seldom correct, but the view of Cyprus on arrival
from the south was depressing, and extinguished all hopes that had
been formed concerning our newly-acquired possession. This was the
treasure acquired by astute diplomacy!
For about twenty miles we skirted this miserable coast, upon which not
a green speck relieved the eye; at length we sighted the minaret which
marked the position of Larnaca, the port or roadstead to which the mail
was bound; and in the town we distinguished three or four green trees.
We cast anchor about half a mile from the shore. Nine or ten vessels,
including several steamers, were in the roadstead, and a number of
lighters were employed in landing cargoes.
Disappointment and disgust were quickly banished by the reflection
that at this season (January) there was nothing green in England: the
thermometer in that dreary land would be below freezing-point, while
on the deck where we stood it was 64 degrees Fahr. We were quickly in
a boat steering for the landing-place.
All towns look tolerably well from the sea, especially if situated
actually upon the margin of the water. The town