curses it as a mask for the old
Federalist party, which tried to corrupt America with the British system,
after it had failed as a combination of Loyalists to keep America under
the dominion of Great Britain.... This is all a maze to me, at least so far
as the American application is concerned. Then the man with the
goatee assails New England, and calls her the devotee of the soured
gospel of envy which covers its wolf face of hate with the lamb's
decapitated head of universal brotherhood and slavery abolition. Surely
there is much strife in America.... Also again President Jackson, the
tariff, and the force bill! And will South Carolina secede from the
Union on account of the unjust and lawless tariff? New England tried to
secede once when the run of affairs did not suit her. Why not South
Carolina, then, if she chooses? Another man is reading a book of poems
and talking at intervals to a companion. I hear him say that a Mr. Willis
is one of the world's greatest poets. I glance at the book and see the
name Nathaniel Parker Willis. Also it seems Willis is the editor of one
of the world's greatest literary journals. It is published in New York and
is called the New York Mirror.... It is all so strange. Is it true that in this
country, so far from England, there are men who are the equals of
Shelley and Byron, or of Tennyson, whose first book has given me
such delight recently?...
We near the journey's end. At Lockport we are lifted up the precipice
over which the Falls of Niagara pour some miles distant. We are now
on a level with Lake Erie, to which we have climbed by many locks
and lifts over the hills since we left Albany. Soon we travel along the
side of the Niagara River; quickly we drift into Buffalo.
CHAPTER V
Buffalo, they told me, had about 15,000 people. I wished to see
something of it before departing for the farther west. For should I ever
come this way again? I started from the dock, but immediately found
myself surrounded by runners and touters lauding the excellences of the
boats to which they were attached. The harbor was full of steamboats
competing for trade.... They rang bells, let off steam, whistled. Bands
played. Negroes ran here and there, carrying freight and baggage. The
air was vibrating with yells and profanity.... But I made my escape and
walked through the town. It had broad streets, lovely squares,
substantial and attractive buildings and residences. And there was Lake
Erie, blue and fresh, rippling under the brilliant May sun. I had never
seen anything remotely approximating Lake Erie.... "How large is it?" I
inquired of a passerby. I was told that it was 60 miles wide and 250
miles long. Could it be true? Was there anything in all of Europe to
equal it? I could not for the moment remember the extent of the
Caspian Sea. And I stood in wonder and delight.
As I left the dock for my walk I had observed the name Illinois on a
boat that had all the appearances of being brand new. I walked leisurely
toward the dock so as to avoid the touters as much as possible while I
was overlooking the boat. I liked it, but would it take me to Chicago?
The gangplank was lying on the dock and near it stood what seemed to
me to be the captain and the pilot, around them touters and others. I
edged around to the captain and asked him if the Illinois would take me
to Chicago. "In about an hour," he said with a laugh. Immediately I was
besieged by the runners to help me on, to get my baggage, to serve me
in all possible ways. I couldn't hire all of them. I chose one, who got
my valise for me, and I went aboard.
It was a new boat, and this was its maiden trip. All the stewards,
negroes, waiters were brisk and obliging, and bent on making the trip
an event. The captain gave parties. He was a bluff, kindly man, who
mingled much with favorite passengers. Wine flowed freely. The food
was abundant and delicious. We had dances by moonlight on the deck.
A band played at dinner and at night. The boat was distinguished for
many quaint and interesting characters. I enjoyed it all, but made no
friends. I did not understand this free and easy manner of life. The
captain noted me, and asked if I was well placed and comfortable.
Various people opened conversations with me. But I was shy, and I was
English. I could not unbend. I did not desire to do so.
We
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