letter
written from Illinois by the lawyer, who had advised this journey and
my presence at Jacksonville, for that was the town where my father's
estate was to be settled. For the first time I was conscious of the fact
that difficulties probably stood in my way. The letter read: "Claims are
likely to be made against the estate that require your personal
attention." What could it mean? Why had my grandmother said nothing
to me of this? She had seen the letter. I began to wonder. But to fight
down my growing loneliness I started out to see the city.
As I passed up the street I bought _Valentine's Manual_ and glanced at
it as I walked. How far up did the city extend? The manual said more
than thirteen miles. I could not make that distance before dark. A
passerby said that there was a horse railway running as far as Murray
Hill. But I strode on, arriving in a little while at Washington Square.
Beyond this I could see that the city did not present the appearance of
being greatly built. On my way I passed the gas works, the City Hall,
many banks, several circulating libraries, saw the signs of almost
innumerable insurance companies. But the people! They were all
strange to me. So many negroes. My manual said there were over
14,000 negroes in the city, which, added to the white population, made
an aggregate of more than 200,000 souls. I sat for a while in the Park
and then retraced my steps.
On my way back I stopped at Niblo's Garden at Broadway and Prince
Street. It was a gay place. People were feasting upon oysters, drinking,
laughing, talking over the affairs of the day. Here I partook of oysters
for the first time in my life. I walked through the grounds, looking at
the flowers. I stared about at the splendor of the paintings and the
mirrors in the rooms. Then like a ghost I resumed my way to my hotel.
Why? There was nothing there to call me back. Yet it was the only
home I had, and the evening was coming on.
Instead of stopping at the hotel, I went on to Castle Garden. I decided
to dine there. I could look over the harbor and the ships. It was a way to
put myself in touch with England, to travel back over the way I had
come. I found a table and ordered a meal.
I became conscious of the fact that the captain of the Columbia and
Caledonia was at a near table with a gay party. They had wine, and
there was much merriment. This abandonment was in contrast to the
serious, almost dark spirit of a party at another table. This was
composed of men entirely. I had never seen such faces before. Their
hair was long. They wore goatees. They were strangely dressed. They
talked with a broad accent. Excitement and anger rose in their voices.
They were denouncing President Jackson. The matter seemed to be a
force bill, the tariff imposed by New England's enterprise, the duty of
the Southern States to resist it. They were insisting that there was no
warrant to pass a tariff law, that it was clearly a breach of the
Constitution, and that it should be resisted to the death. There was bitter
cursing of Yankees, of the greed of New England, of its disregard of
the rights of the South.... But out upon the harbor the sea gulls were
drifting. I could hear the slapping of the waves against the rocks. And
in the midst of this the orchestra began to play "Annie Laurie." The
tears came to my eyes. I arose and left the place. My mind turned to a
theater as a means of relief to these pressing thoughts. I consulted my
manual, and started for the American theater. It was described as an
example of Doric architecture, modeled after the temple of Minerva at
Athens. I found it on the Bowery and Elizabeth Street, bought a ticket
for seventy-five cents and entered. The play was _Othello_, and I had
never seen it before.
I could not help but overhear and follow the conversation of the people
who sat next to me. They were wondering what moved Shakespeare to
depict the story of a black man married to a white woman. Could such
a theme be dramatized now? How could a woman, fair and high-bred,
become the wife of a sooty creature like Othello? Was it real? If not
real, what was Shakespeare trying to do? And much more to the same
effect, together with remarks about negroes and that slavery should be
let alone by New England, and by everyone else.
The play was dreary to me, played
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