Chateau and Country Life in France | Page 2

with
books, which he gave away as prizes or to school libraries. The choice
of the books always interested me. They were principally translations,
English and American--Walter Scott, Marryat, Fenimore Cooper, etc.
The bedroom and cabinet de travail had glass doors opening on the
park. I had the same rooms upstairs, giving one to my maid, for I was
nervous at being so far away from anyone. M. and Mme. A. and all the
servants were at the other end of the house, and there were no bells in
our wing (nor anywhere else in the house except in the dining-room).
When I wanted a work-woman who was sewing in the lingerie I had to
go up a steep little winding staircase, which connected our wing with
the main building, and walk the whole length of the gallery to the
lingerie, which was at the extreme end of the other wing. I was very
fond of my rooms. The bedroom and sitting-room opened on a balcony
with a lovely view over wood and park. When I sat there in the
morning with my petit déjeuner--cup of tea and roll--I could see all that
went on in the place. First the keeper would appear, a tall, handsome

man, rather the northern type, with fair hair and blue eyes, his gun
always over his shoulder, sacoche at his side, swinging along with the
free, vigorous step of a man accustomed to walk all day. Then Hubert,
the coachman, would come for orders, two little fox-terriers always
accompanying him, playing and barking, and rolling about on the grass.
Then the farmer's wife, driving herself in her gig, and bringing cheese,
butter, milk, and sometimes chickens when our bassecour was getting
low. A little later another lot would appear, people from the village or
canton, wanting to see their deputy and have all manner of grievances
redressed. It was curious sometimes to make out, at the end of a long
story, told in peasant dialect, with many digressions, what particular
service notre député was expected to render. I was present sometimes at
some of the conversations, and was astounded at W.'s patience and
comprehension of what was wanted--I never understood half.
[1] W. here and throughout this volume refers to Mme. Waddington's
husband, M. William Waddington.
We generally had our day to ourselves. We rode almost every
morning--long, delicious gallops in the woods, the horses going easily
and lightly over the grass roads; and the days W. was away and couldn't
ride, I used to walk about the park and gardens. The kitchen garden was
enormous--almost a park in itself--and in the season I eat pounds of
white grapes, which ripened to a fine gold color on the walls in the sun.
We rarely saw M. and Mme. A. until twelve-o'clock breakfast.
[Illustration: I loved to hear her play Beethoven and Handel.]
Sometimes when it was fine we would take a walk with the old people
after breakfast, but we generally spent our days apart. M. and Mme. A.
were charming people, intelligent, cultivated, reading everything and
keeping quite in touch with all the literary and Protestant world, but
they had lived for years entirely in the country, seeing few people, and
living for each other. The first evenings at the château made a great
impression upon me. We dined at 7:30, and always sat after dinner in
the big drawing-room. There was one lamp on a round table in the
middle of the room (all the corners shrouded in darkness). M. and Mme.
A. sat in two arm-chairs opposite to each other, Mme. A. with a green

shade in front of her. Her eyes were very bad; she could neither read
nor work. She had been a beautiful musician, and still played
occasionally, by heart, the classics. I loved to hear her play Beethoven
and Handel, such a delicate, old-fashioned touch. Music was at once a
bond of union. I often sang for her, and she liked everything I
sang--Italian stornelli, old-fashioned American negro songs, and even
the very light modern French chansonnette, when there was any melody
in them. There were two other arm-chairs at the table, destined for W.
and me. I will say W. never occupied his. He would sit for about half
an hour with M. A. and talk politics or local matters with him, but after
that he departed to his own quarters, and I remained with the old people.
I felt very strange at first, it was so unlike anything I had ever seen, so
different from my home life, where we were a happy, noisy family,
always one of the party, generally two, at the piano, everybody
laughing, talking, and enjoying life, and always a troop of visitors,
cousins innumerable and friends.
It was a curious atmosphere. I