Cassells Vegetarian Cookery | Page 8

fritters are also very economical--orange fritters, apple
fritters, &c., because the batter helps to make the dish a meal.
Those who have practised vegetarianism for many years will probably
be of opinion that we have not called sufficient attention to the subject
of fruit and nuts. This is not because we do not believe in their
usefulness, but because we think that those who are changing their
mode of living will be far better enabled to do so without discomfort by
making their chief alterations in diet in the directions we have pointed
out. There is moreover little or no cookery involved in these articles.

Of the wholesomeness of fresh fruit all are agreed; and as people
become more advanced vegetarians, the desire for fruit and nuts will
follow in due course. In future years, as the demand increases, the
supply will increase; but this is a question of time. Lookers-on often
see more of the game than the players. It is not because the sudden
change might not be beneficial, but because sudden changes are only
likely to be effected in rare instances, that we have taken the view we
have. Prejudice is strong, and it would be very difficult to persuade
persons, unless they had been gradually brought to the change, to
regard nuts in the light of food. To suggest a meal off Brazil nuts would
to many have a tendency to put vegetarianism in a ridiculous light, and
nothing kills so readily as ridicule.
In conclusion, it will be observed that from time to time we have used
the expression, "if wine be allowed." There is no necessary connection
between vegetarianism and teetotalism, but it would be affectation to
deny the fact that they are generally connected. Of the numerous
arguments brought forward by the advocates of vegetarianism, one is
that, in the opinion of many who speak with authority, a vegetarian diet
is best adapted to those--of whom, unfortunately, there are many--who,
from time to time, have a craving for more stimulant than is beneficial
to their health. Many medical men are of the opinion that large
meat-eaters require alcoholic stimulant, and that they can give up the
latter more easily by abstaining from the former. This is a question for
medical men to decide, as it does not properly come into the province
of the cook.
We have repeatedly mentioned the addition of wine and liqueurs; but
when these are used for flavouring purposes it is not to be regarded in
the same light as if taken alone. There is a common sense in these
matters which should never be overlooked. The teetotaler who attended
the Lord Mayor's dinner, and refused his glass of punch with his
turtle-soup, would be consistent; but to refuse the turtle-soup itself on
the ground that a little wine, probably Madeira, might have been added,
would proclaim him to be a faddist. It is to be regretted that in the
present day so many good causes have been injured by this ostentation
of carrying ideas to an extreme. Practically, where wine is used in

cookery, it is added solely for the peculiar flavour, and the alcohol
itself is evaporated. To be consistent, the vast majority of teetotal
drinks, and possibly even stewed fruit itself, would have to be refused
on the same ground, viz., an almost infinitely small trace of alcohol.
We think it best to explain the reason we have introduced the
expression, "if wine be allowed." In each case it is used for flavouring,
and flavouring purposes only. We know that with some persons a very
small amount of stimulant creates a desire for more, and when this is
the case the small quantity should be avoided; but in the case of the
quantity being so infinitely small that it ceases to have this effect, even
if not boiled away as it really is, no harm can possibly arise. Where
wine is added to soups and sauces and exposed to heat, this would be
the case. On the other hand, in the case of tipsy-cake, and wine added
to compote of fruit, this would probably not be the case. A great
distinction should be drawn between such cases. It will be found,
however, that in every case we have mentioned the addition is
altogether optional, or a substitute like lemon-juice can be used in its
place.
VEGETARIAN COOKERY
CHAPTER 1.
SOUPS.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
There are very few persons, unless they have made vegetarian cookery
a study, who are aware what a great variety of soups can be made
without the use of meat or fish. As a rule, ordinary cookery-books have
the one exception of what is called soup maigre. In England it seems to
be the impression that the goodness of the soup depends upon the
amount of