Camps, Quarters, and Casual Places | Page 6

one of the principal Ministers. Of these there were four, who
constituted the _Hlwot-dau_, or High Court and Council of the
Monarchy. These "Woonghys" or "Menghyis," as they were more
commonly called--"Menghyi," meaning "Great Prince"--were of equal
rank; but the senior Minister, the Yenangyoung Menghyi, who had
precedence, was then in confinement, and, indeed, a decree of
degradation had gone forth against him. Obviously he was of no use;
but a more influential man than he ever was, and having the additional
advantages of being at liberty, in power and in favour, was the
"Kingwoon Menghyi." He was in effect the Prime Minister of the King
of Burmah. His position was roughly equivalent to that of Bismarck in
Germany, or of Gortschakoff in Russia, since, in addition to his internal
influence, he had the chief direction of foreign affairs. Now this
"Kingwoon Menghyi" had for a day or two been relaxing from the
cares of State. Partly for his own pleasure, partly by way of example,
he had laid out a beautiful garden on the low ground near the river.
Within this garden he had the intention to build himself a suburban
residence, which meanwhile was represented by a summer pavilion of
teak and bamboo. He was a liberal-minded man, and it was a
satisfaction to him that the shady walks and pleasant rose-groves of this

garden should be enjoyed by the people of Mandalay. He was a
reformer, this "Kingwoon Menghyi," and believed in the humanising
effect of free access to the charms of nature. His garden laid out and his
pavilion finished, he was celebrating the event by a series of _fêtes._
He was "at home" in his pavilion to everybody; bands of music played
all day long and day after day, in the kiosks, among the young palm
trees and the rosebushes. Mandalay, high and low, made holiday in the
mazy walks of his garden and in an improvised theatre, wherein an
interminable _pooey,_ or Burmese drama, was being enacted before
ever-varying and constantly appreciative audiences. Dr. Williams
opined that it would conduce to the success of my object that we should
call upon the Minister at his garden-house and request him to use his
good offices in my behalf.
It was near noon when we reached the entrance to the garden. Merry
but orderly sightseers thronged its alleys, and stared with wondering
admiration at a rather attenuated jet of water which rose into the clear
air some thirty feet above a rockwork fountain in the centre. Dignitaries
strolled about under the stemless umbrellas like huge shields, with
which assiduous attendants protected them from the sun; and were
followed by posses of retainers, who prostrated themselves whenever
their masters halted or looked round. Ladies in white jackets and
trailing silk skirts of vivid hue were taking a leisurely airing, each with
her demure maid behind her carrying the lacquer-ware box of betel-nut.
As often as not the fair ones were blowing copious clouds from huge
reed-like cheroots. Sounds of shrill music were heard in the distance.
Walking up the central alley between the rows of palms and the hedges
of roses, we found in the veranda a mixed crowd of laymen and priests,
the latter distinguishable by their shaved heads and yellow robes. The
Minister was just finishing his morning's work of distributing offerings
to the latter, in commemoration of the opening of his gardens. In
response to a message, he at once sent to desire that we should come to
him. The great "shoe-question," the quaestio vexata between British
officialism and Burmah officialism, did not trouble me. I had no
official position; I wanted to gain an object. I have a respect for the
honour of my country, but I could not bring myself to realise that the
national honour centres in my shoes. So I parted with them at the top of
the steps leading up into the Minister's pavilion, and walking on what is

known as my "stocking-feet," and feeling rather shuffling and shabby
accordingly, was ushered through a throng of prostrate dependents into
the presence of the Menghyi. He came forward frankly and cordially,
shook hands with a hearty smile with Dr. Williams and myself, and
beckoned us into an inner alcove, carpeted with rich rugs and panelled
with mirrors. Placing himself in a half-sitting, half-kneeling attitude
which did not expose his feet, he beckoned to us to get down also. I
own to having experienced extreme difficulty in keeping my feet out of
sight, which was a point _de rigueur_; but his Excellency was not
censorious. There was with him a secretary who had resided several
years in Europe, and who spoke fluently English, French, and Italian.
This gentleman knew London thoroughly, and was perfectly familiar
both with the name of the Daily News