Cactus Culture For Amateurs | Page 9

or gradually dries up. In preparing soil, therefore, for all
Cactuses (except Epiphyllum and Rhipsalis, which will be treated
separately) a good, rather stiff loam, with plenty of grass fibre in it,
should form the principal ingredient, sand and, if obtainable, small
brick rubble being added--one part of each of the latter to six parts of
the former. The brick rubble should be pounded up so that the largest
pieces are about the size of hazel nuts. Lime rubbish, i.e., old plaster
from buildings, &c., is sometimes recommended for Cactuses, but it
does not appear to be of any use except as drainage. At Kew its use has
been discontinued, and it is now generally condemned by all good
cultivators. Of course, the idea that lime was beneficial to Cactuses
sprang from the knowledge that it existed in large quantities in the soil
in which the plants grew naturally, and it is often found in abundance,
in the form of oxalate of lime, in the old stems of the plants. But in
good loam, lime, in the state of chalk, is always present, and this,
together with the lime contained in the brick rubble, is sufficient to
supply the plants with as much as they require.
For Epiphyllums and Rhipsalis, both of which are epiphytal naturally,
but which are found to thrive best in pots in our houses, a mixture of
equal parts of peat and loam with sand and brick rubble in the same
proportion as before recommended, will be found most suitable. Leaf
mould is sometimes used for these plants; but unless really good it is
best left out of the soil. The finest Epiphyllums have been grown in a
soil which consists almost wholly of a light fibry loam, with the
addition of a little crushed bones.
Potting.--Cactuses, when healthy, are injuriously affected by frequent

disturbance at the roots. On the arrival of the potting season, which for
these plants is in April and May, established plants should be examined
at the root, and if the roots are found to be in a healthy condition, and
the soil sweet, they should be replaced in the same pots to continue in
them another year. If the roots are decayed, or the soil has become sour,
it should be shaken away from the roots, which must be examined,
cutting away all decayed portions, and shortening the longest roots to
within a few inches of the base of the plant. Cactuses are so tenacious
of life, and appear to rely so little on their roots, that it will be found the
wisest plan, when repotting them, to cut the roots thoroughly.
The size of pots most suitable is what would be considered small in
comparison with other plants, Cactuses preferring to be somewhat
cramped in this respect. This, indeed, is how they are found when wild,
the roots generally fixing themselves in the crevices of the rocks or
stones about which the plants grow, so that a large specimen is often
found to have only a few inches of space in the cleft of a rock for the
whole of its roots. When thus limited, growth is firmer and the flowers
are produced in much greater profusion than when a liberal amount of
root space is afforded. The pots should be well drained-about one-fifth
of their depth filled with drainage when intended for large,
strong-growing kinds, and one-third for the smaller ones, such as
Mamillarias. A layer of rough fibry material should be placed over the
crocks to prevent the finer soil from stopping the drainage. When
filling in the soil, press it down firmly, spreading the roots well
amongst it, and keeping the base of the plant only an inch or so below
the surface.
For plants with weak stems, stakes will be necessary, and even
stout-stemmed kinds, when their roots are not sufficient to hold them
firmly, will do best if fastened to one or two strong stakes till they have
made new roots and got firm hold of the soil. Epiphyllums, when
grown as standards, should be tied to strong wire supports, those with
three short, prong-like legs being most desirable, as, owing to the
weight of the head of the plant, a single stake is not sufficient to hold
the whole firmly. After potting, no water should be given for a few
weeks. In fact, if the atmosphere in which the plants are placed be kept
a little moist, it will not be necessary to water them till signs of fresh
growth are perceived. For Epiphyllums and Rhipsalis, water will be

required earlier than this; but even they are best left for a few days
without water, after they have been repotted. As soon as fresh growth is
perceived, the plants may be well watered, and from this