of Capri
showed but a faint glimmer; over it towered mighty crags, an awful
blackness, a void amid constellations. From my seat near the stern of
the vessel I could discern no human form; it was as though I voyaged
quite alone in the silence of this magic sea. Silence so all-possessing
that the sound of the ship's engine could not reach my ear, but was
blended with the water-splash into a lulling murmur. The stillness of a
dead world laid its spell on all that lived. To-day seemed an unreality,
an idle impertinence; the real was that long-buried past which gave its
meaning to all around me, touching the night with infinite pathos. Best
of all, one's own being became lost to consciousness; the mind knew
only the phantasmal forms it shaped, and was at peace in vision.
CHAPTER II
PAOLA
I slept little, and was very early on deck, scanning by the light of dawn
a mountainous coast. At sunrise I learnt that we were in sight of Paola;
as day spread gloriously over earth and sky, the vessel hove to and
prepared to land cargo. There, indeed, was the yellowish little town
which I had so long pictured; it stood at a considerable height above the
shore; harbour there was none at all, only a broad beach of shingle on
which waves were breaking, and where a cluster of men, women and
children stood gazing at the steamer. It gave me pleasure to find the
place so small and primitive. In no hurry to land, I watched the
unloading of merchandise (with a great deal of shouting and
gesticulation) into boats which had rowed out for the purpose;
speculated on the resources of Paola in the matter of food (for I was
hungry); and at moments cast an eye towards the mountain barrier
which it was probable I should cross to-day.
At last my portmanteau was dropped down on to the laden boat; I, as
best I could, managed to follow it; and on the top of a pile of rope and
empty flour-sacks we rolled landward. The surf was high; it cost much
yelling, leaping, and splashing to gain the dry beach. Meanwhile, not
without apprehension, I had eyed the group awaiting our arrival; that
they had their eyes on me was obvious, and I knew enough of southern
Italians to foresee my reception. I sprang into the midst of a clamorous
conflict; half a dozen men were quarreling for possession of me. No
sooner was my luggage on shore than they flung themselves upon it.
By what force of authority I know not, one of the fellows triumphed; he
turned to me with a satisfied smile, and--presented his wife.
"_Mia sposa, signore_!"
Wondering, and trying to look pleased, I saw the woman seize the
portmanteau (a frightful weight), fling it on to her head, and march
away at a good speed. The crowd and I followed to the dogana, close
by, where as vigorous a search was made as I have ever had to undergo.
I puzzled the people; my arrival was an unwonted thing, and they felt
sure I was a trader of some sort. Dismissed under suspicion, I allowed
the lady to whom I had been introduced to guide me townwards. Again
she bore the portmanteau on her head, and evidently thought it a trifle,
but as the climbing road lengthened, and as I myself began to perspire
in the warm sunshine, I looked at my attendant with uncomfortable
feelings. It was a long and winding way, but the woman continued to
talk and laugh so cheerfully that I tried to forget her toil. At length we
reached a cabin where the dazio (town dues) officer presented himself,
and this conscientious person insisted on making a fresh examination of
my baggage; again I explained myself, again I was eyed suspiciously;
but he released me, and on we went. I had bidden my guide take me to
the best inn; it was the Leone, a little place which looked from the
outside like an ill-kept stable, but was decent enough within. The room
into which they showed me had a delightful prospect. Deep beneath the
window lay a wild, leafy garden, and lower on the hillside a lemon
orchard shining with yellow fruit; beyond, the broad pebbly beach, far
seen to north and south, with its white foam edging the blue expanse of
sea. There I descried the steamer from which I had landed, just under
way for Sicily. The beauty of this view, and the calm splendour of the
early morning, put me into happiest mood. After little delay a tolerable
breakfast was set before me, with a good rough wine; I ate and drank
by the window, exulting in what I saw
Continue reading on your phone by scaning this QR Code
Tip: The current page has been bookmarked automatically. If you wish to continue reading later, just open the
Dertz Homepage, and click on the 'continue reading' link at the bottom of the page.