By Water to the Columbian Exposition | Page 9

4,000 feet, which was erected at
the expense of some millions of dollars for the protection of the city
from being flooded by the unruly waters of Lake Erie.
While the tanks of the yacht were being filled with the limpid water of
the lake, we ascended the stairs leading to the top of the protecting wall;
for we all were anxious to become acquainted with the nature of the
billows that were to carry us many miles westward and nearer to our far
destination.
It was a glorious sight unfolded before our eyes. We glanced at a huge
sheet of water, about 268 miles long, varying from thirty to nearly sixty
miles in width, with an area of 9600 square miles, whose elevation
from tide water is judged to be 564 feet.
This majestic spectacle, as animated as it was, imparted to us an
adequate conception of a boisterous inland sea. The surface of the lake
was in wild uproar; the advancing and retreating waves were beating
themselves into angry foam, and dashed their spray pearls almost to our
feet; their opulent azure hue being dimmed by the violent agitation. The
inexperienced eye has no idea of the imposing impression caused by
the extremely subitaneous changes to which these waters are subjected.
The wide bosom of the lake that sometimes lies motionless and glassy,
without a breath of air to cause the slightest undulation, in a very short
time may be scourged by a sudden gale. The wild gambols of the waves,
accompanied by the roar of the disturbed elements, may well cause the
timid to fear; for, as the swell lifts, you would think the bases of the
earth are rising beneath it; and, again, when it falls, you would imagine
the foundation of the deep had given away.

Though the billows before us now were beaten by a powerful breeze,
breaking with angry roar upon the barrier upon which we stood, yet not
the slightest feeling of fear found place within our hearts. On the
contrary, as we left the breakwater in order to return to Buffalo, I felt
my heart palpitating with joy as I thought of the pleasing prospect to be
tossed by those grand waves.
Having chosen a place at the foot of Main Street for our stay, the orders
to secure the "Marguerite" were instantly carried out; and immediately
a multitude of curious beholders had gathered around the yacht,
viewing her with evident expression of admiration.
Since it was yet early in the afternoon we decided to go on shore, in
order to view the points of interest in this important city.
A ride in the electric railway, traversing it in every direction, made us
acquainted with a good portion of Buffalo, which contains a population
of nearly 300,000, being the third city in size in the Empire State. It is
handsomely laid out with broad and well shaded streets. One hundred
and three miles are paved with asphalt, and 133 miles with stone. We
saw many fine residences with attractive grounds, and numerous public
squares. Delaware Avenue, the leading street for elegant mansions, is
about three miles long, and is lined with a double row of trees.
The city possesses a superb system of parks and pleasure grounds,
designed and laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, the architect of
Central Park in New York City. It comprises three sections, situated
respectively in the northern, western, and eastern parts of Buffalo,
which, with the connecting boulevard, afford a drive of nearly ten
miles.
Main Street, the principal trading thoroughfare, has many substantial
business blocks.
Of the prominent public buildings, the city and county hall deserves
being mentioned in the first place. It is an imposing structure, of Maine
granite, in the form of a double Roman cross, with a tower 245 feet
high, surmounted by four statues. This magnificent edifice is fronting
on Franklin Street, and was completed in 1880 at a cost of nearly
$1,500,000.
Other handsome buildings are the U.S. custom house and postoffice, at
the corner of Washington and Seneca Streets; the Buffalo library, on
Lafayette Square; the State arsenal, in Broadway; the Erie County

penitentiary, one of the six penal establishments of New York; the
general hospital, in High Street; and the State asylum for the insane, an
edifice which cost about $3,000,000, located in Forest Avenue,
adjoining the Buffalo Park.
The city is also adorned with several handsome churches and theaters.
Buffalo was first settled by the Dutch in 1801, and became an
important military post during the war of 1812. It was burned by a
combined force of British and Indians in 1814. Its city charter was
granted in 1832, and since then its growth has been very rapid.
As regards its live-stock trade, Buffalo ranks third among the