Bowdoin Boys in Labrador | Page 7

with a guide; very wisely, I think, from what I have
seen of native Labradoreans. While the journey they undertake is one in
which the skill of Indians or half-breeds, familiar with Labrador
wildernesses would be of great value and would add to the comfort of
our party, it is very doubtful if any living person has ever been to the
falls or knows any more about the last, and probably the hardest part of
the trip, than Cary. And, further, the travel is so difficult that about all a
man can carry is supplies for himself; and the Indians cannot stand the
pace that our men intend to strike; nor, if it should come to the last
extremity, and a forlorn hope was needed to make a last desperate push

for discovery or relief, could the Indian guides, so far as we have any
knowledge of them, be relied on. That the boldest measures are often
the surest, will probably again be demonstrated by our Grand River
party.
We tried the exploring boats very thoroughly at Chateau Bay, three of
us getting caught about six miles from the vessel in quite a blow, and
the well-laden boat proved herself very seaworthy. When loaded, she
still draws but little water, and is good in every way for the trip.
This letter was begun in the fine breeze off Newfoundland, but could
not be mailed till the port of entry and post-office of Labrador, Battle
Harbor, was reached. A week was consumed in getting from our first
anchorage in Labrador to this harbor, as the captain was unaccustomed
to icebergs, and properly decided to take no risks with them in the
strong shifting currents and thick weather of the eastern end of the
straits. The wind was ahead for several days, and the heavy squalls
coming off the land in quick succession made us fear the wind would
drop and leave us banging around in the fog that usually accompanies a
calm spell, so we kept close to harbors and dodged in on the first
provocation.
The season is three weeks late this year; the first mail boat has not yet
arrived, though last year at this time she was on her second trip. The
last report from the North--down the coast they call it--that went to
Newfoundland and St. John's was "that it was impassable ice this side
Hamilton Inlet." A vessel--a steam sealing bark--though, that was here
yesterday and has gone to Sidney, C.B.I., reports now that the coast is
clear to Hopedale. Beyond we know nothing about it.
On Henley and Castle Islands, at the mouth of Chateau Bay, are
basaltic table-lands about half a mile across, perfectly flat on top and
about two hundred feet high. We walked around one, went to its top
and secured specimens from the columns. The famous "natural images"
of men, are, to my eye, not nearly so good as the descriptions lead one
to expect. The history of the place could hardly be guessed from its
present barren, desolate, poverty-stricken appearance; but the remains
of quite a fort on Barrier Point show some signs of former and now
departed glory. It seems that it has been under the dominion of England,
France and the United States, all of whom took forceful possession of it,
and England and France have governed it. An American privateer once

sacked the place, carrying away, I believe, about 3,500 pounds worth of
property. Now, a very small population eke out a wretched existence by
fishing, only a few remaining, living at the heads of the bays, in the
winter, and most of them going home to Newfoundland.
The icebergs are in great plenty. I counted eighty from the basaltic
table-land at one time, and the professor saw even more at once. Belle
Isle is in plain sight from this place, looking like Monhegan from the
Georges Islands, though possibly somewhat longer.
[Battle Harbor] Finally, as the wind showed no signs of changing, the
captain, to our intense delight, decided to beat around to Battle Harbor
and we anchored here at about 5:50 P.M., July 17th. Many of the
icebergs we passed were glorious, and the scene was truly arctic. It was
bitterly cold, and heavy coats were the order of the day. We passed
Cape St. Charles, the proposed terminus of the Labrador Railroad to
reduce the time of crossing the Atlantic to four days, saw the famous
table-land, and soon opened Battle Harbor which we had to beat up,
way round to the northward, to enter. It was slow business with a
strong head current, but the fishermen say a vessel never came around
more quickly. We found the harbor very small, with rocks not shown in
chart or coast pilot, and had barely room to come