Bohemian San Francisco | Page 6

Clarence E. Edwords
to appreciate the art and science of cooking as
evidenced by the breakfasts and dinners with which he regales his
guests at the present day.
But many of the hardy pioneers were of English and American stock
and preferred the plainer foods of their old homes to the highly
seasoned dishes of the Latin chefs, and to cater to this growing demand
the Nevada was opened in Pine street between Montgomery and
Kearny. This place became noted for its roast beef and also for its
corned beef and cabbage, which was said to be of most excellent flavor.
Most famous of all the old oyster houses was Mannings, at the corner
of Pine and Webb streets. He specialized in oysters and many of his
dishes have survived to the present day. It is said that the style now
called "Oysters Kirkpatrick," is but a variant of Manning's "Oyster Salt
Roast."
At the corner of California and Sansome streets, where now stands the
Bank of California, was the Tehama House, one of the most famous of
the city's early hostelries, whose restaurant was famed for its excellence.
The Tehama House was the rendezvous of army and navy officers and
high state officials. Lieutenant John Derby, of the United States Army,
one of the most widely known western authors of that day, made it his
headquarters. Derby wrote under the names of "John Phoenix," and
"Squibob."
Perini's, in Post street between Grant avenue and Stockton, specialized

in pastes and veal risotto, and was much patronized by uptown men.
The original Marchand began business in a little room in Dupont street,
between Jackson and Washington, which district at that time had not
been given over to the Chinese, and he cooked over a charcoal brazier,
in his window, in view of passing people who were attracted by the
novelty and retained by the good cooking. With the extension of his
fame he found his room too small and he rented a cottage at Bush and
Dupont street, but his business grew so rapidly that he was compelled
to move to more commodious quarters at Post and Dupont and later to
a much larger place at Geary and Stockton, where he enjoyed good
patronage until the fire destroyed his place. There is now a restaurant in
Geary street near Mason which has on its windows in very small letters
"Michael, formerly of," and then in bold lettering, "Marchands." But
Michael has neither the art nor the viands that made Marchands famous,
and he is content to say that his most famous dish is tripe--just plain,
plebeian tripe.
Christian Good, at Washington and Kearny, Big John, at Merchant
street between Montgomery and Sansome, Marshall's Chop House, in
the old Center Market, and Johnson's Oyster House, in a basement at
Clay and Leidesdorff streets, were all noted places and much
patronized, the latter laying the foundation of one of San Francisco's
"First Families." Martin's was much patronized by the Old Comstock
crowd, and this was the favorite dining place of the late William C.
Ralston.
One of the most famous restaurants of the early '70s was the Mint, in
Commercial street, between Montgomery and Kearny, where the
present restaurant of the same name is located. It was noted for its
Southern cooking and was the favorite resort of W. W. Foote and other
prominent Southerners. The kitchen was presided over by old Billy
Jackson, an old-time Southern darkey, who made a specialty of fried
chicken, cream gravy, and corn fritters.

Birth of the French Restaurant

French impression came strongly about this time, and the Poodle Dog,
of Paris, had its prototype at Bush and Dupont streets. This was one of
the earliest of the type known as "French Restaurants," and numerous
convivial parties of men and women found its private rooms convenient
for rendezvous. Old Pierre of later days, who was found dead out on the
Colma road some two years after the fire of 1906, was a waiter at the
Poodle Dog when it started, and by saving his tips and making good
investments he was able to open a similar restaurant at Stockton and
Market, which he called the Pup. The Pup was famous for its frogs' legs
a la poulette. In this venture Pierre had a partner, to whom he sold out a
few years later and then he opened the Tortoni in O'Farrell street,
which became one of the most famous of the pre-fire restaurants, its
table d'hote dinners being considered the best in the city. When Claus
Spreckels built the tall Spreckels building Pierre and his partner opened
the Call restaurant in the top stories. With the fire both of the
restaurants went out of existence, and the old proprietor of the Poodle
Dog having died, Pierre and a partner named Pon
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