Beetons Book of Needlework | Page 7

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18 or 20.
[Illustration: 14.--Insertion in Tatting.]
1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double
thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 purl, 10
double, draw up.
Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up.
Repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off.
For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion, the

shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence by working--
1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first and second
ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Double thread:
8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last--namely, the one
connecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10
double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl which
connects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on.
Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl of
double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only, this makes a
pretty wide edging.
* * * * *
15.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, and
crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 15.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.]
This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops and treble
stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as follows: Make a circle
of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. This circle is
repeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only instead of
the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the last purl of
the preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must be
finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double stitches
over the thread which joins the circles. The number of stitches depends
on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches round the
circles at the place where both ends meet. The outer row consists of
treble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1
stitch under each chain. The scallops consist of the two following
rows:--1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles are joined,
4 chain; in each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2 double
stitches.
2nd row: 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1 double, 3 long double,
1 double.
* * * * *
16 and 17.--_Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting_.
[Illustration: 16.--Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting.]
This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim of the

bonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil is of black silk
net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse silk, and worked in
applique over the tulle. The veil is edged round with a tatted lace made
with the same silk. For the patterns and lace and instructions, see Nos.
18 and 19. No. 16 shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the
bonnet, and No. 17 shows its shape when stretched out.
* * * * *
18 and 19.--Patterns in Tatting.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 120 for a
white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 17.--Shape of Veil.]
[Illustration: 18.--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16).]
[Illustration: 19--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16).]
The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil No. 16.
They are sewn upon the net at regular distances.
For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white cotton 6
times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl, then join the stitch
into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next purl. Then 1 spot or
Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain stitches, carry the shuttle
downwards through the loop, and draw the stitches close together;
repeat 3 times more from *. Fasten the silk on to the next purl, and
work a circle as follows:--8 times 2 double, divided by 1 purl; fasten
the silk on to the next purl, work again 1 spot, after which the silk is
fastened, then work 2 more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are
fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st purl.
Fasten off