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if indeed any survived to make the
attempt. Hard by is the place where the great fight related in Hereward
the Wake took place. The Normans were encamped southwards at
Willingham, where a line of low entrenchments is still known as
Belsar's Field, from Belisarius, the Norman Duke in command. It is a
quiet enough place now, and the yellow-hammers sing sweetly and
sharply in the thick thorn hedges. The Normans made a causeway of
faggots and earth across the fen, but came at last to the old channel of
the Ouse, which they could not bridge; and here they attempted to cross
in great flat-bottomed boats, but were foiled by Hereward and his men,
their boats sunk, and hundreds of stout warriors drowned in the oozy
river-bed. There still broods for me a certain horror over the place,
where the river in its confined channel now runs quietly, by sedge and
willow-herb and golden-rod, between its high flood banks, to join the
Cam to the east.
But to return to my house. It was once a monastic grange of Ely, a
farmstead with a few rooms, no doubt, where sick monks and ailing
novices were sent to get change of air and a taste of country life. There
is a bit of an old wall still bordering my garden, and a strip of pale soil
runs across the gooseberry beds, pale with dust of mortar and chips of
brick, where another old wall stood. There was a great pigeon-house
here, pulled down for the shooting-box, and the garden is still full of
old carved stones, lintels, and mullions, and capitals of pillars, and a

grotesque figure of a bearded man, with a tunic confined round the
waist by a cord, which crowns one of my rockeries. But it is all gone
now, and the pert cockneyfied house stands up among the shrubberies
and walnuts, surveying the ruins of what has been.
But I must not abuse my house, because whatever it is outside, it is
absolutely comfortable and convenient within: it is solid, well built,
spacious, sensible, reminding one of the "solid joys and lasting
treasure" that the hymn says "none but Zion's children know." And,
indeed, it is a Zion to be at ease in.
One other great charm it has: from the end of my orchard the ground
falls rapidly in a great pasture. Some six miles away, over the dark
expanse of Grunty Fen, the towers of Ely, exquisitely delicate and
beautiful, crown the ridge; on clear sunny days I can see the sun
shining on the lead roofs, and the great octagon rises with all its fretted
pinnacles. Indeed, so kind is Providence, that the huge brick mass of
the Ely water-tower, like an overgrown Temple of Vesta, blends itself
pleasantly with the cathedral, projecting from the western front like a
great Galilee.
The time to make pious pilgrimage to Ely is when the apple-orchards
are in bloom. Then the grim western tower, with its sombre windows,
the gabled roofs of the canonical houses, rise in picturesque masses
over acres of white blossom. But for me, six miles away, the cathedral
is a never-ending sight of beauty. On moist days it draws nearer, as if
carved out of a fine blue stone; on a grey day it looks more like a
fantastic crag, with pinnacles of rock. Again it will loom a ghostly
white against a thunder-laden sky. Grand and pathetic at once, for it
stands for something that we have parted with. What was the outward
and stately form of a mighty idea, a rich system, is now little more than
an aesthetic symbol. It has lost heart, somehow, and its significance
only exists for ecclesiastically or artistically minded persons; it
represents a force no longer in the front of the battle.
One other fine feature of the countryside there is, of which one never
grows tired. If one crosses over to Sutton, with its huge church, the
tower crowned with a noble octagon, and the village pleasantly perched
along a steep ridge of orchards, one can drop down to the west, past a
beautiful old farmhouse called Berristead, with an ancient chapel, built
into the homestead, among fine elms. The road leads out upon the fen,

and here run two great Levels, as straight as a line for many miles, up
which the tide pulsates day by day; between them lies a wide tract of
pasture called the Wash, which in summer is a vast grazing-ground for
herds, in rainy weather a waste of waters, like a great estuary--north
and south it runs, crossed by a few roads or black-timbered bridges, the
fen- water pouring down to the sea. It is a great place for birds this. The
other day I disturbed a brood of