Alligators. The
Cura. Missionary Priest. Florida Colonists. Blacks in the West Indies.
Chinese and African slaves.
CHAPTER II
.
Players and Political Adventurers. Voyage. Yucatan. Slave-trade in
Natives. The Ten Tribes. Vera Cruz. Don Ignacio Comonfort. Mexican
Politics. Casualties. The City of the Dead. Turkey-buzzards. Northers.
The "temperate region." Cordova. The Chipi-chipi. The "cold region."
Mirage. Sand-pillars. The rainy season. Plundered passengers.
Robber-priest. Aztec remains. Aloe-fields. Houses of mud-bricks. Huts
of aloes. Mexican churches. Mexican roads. Making pulque.
CHAPTER III
.
Palace-hotel of Yturbide. Site and building of Mexico. Changes in the
Valley of Mexico. Dearth of Trees. Architecture. Drunkenness. Fights.
Rattles. Judas's Bones. Burning Judas. Churches in Holy Week. Streets.
Barricades. People. Women. The cypress of Chapultepec.
Old-fashioned coaches. The canal of Chalco. Canoe-travelling.
"Reasonable people." Taste for flowers. The "Floating Gardens."
Promenade. Flooded streets. Earthquakes.
CHAPTER IV
.
Tacubaya. Humming-birds and butterflies. Aztec feather-work.
Bullfight. Lazoing and colearing. English in Mexico. Hedge of
organ-cactus. Pachuca. Cold in the hills. Rapid evaporation.
Mountain-roads. Real del Monte. Guns and pistols. Regla. The
father-confessor in Mexico. Morals of servitude. Cornish miners.
Dram-drinking. Salt-trade. The Indian market. Indian Conservatism.
Sardines. Account-keeping. The great Barranca. Tropical fruits. Prickly
pears. Their use. The "Water-Throat." Silver-works. Volcano of Jorullo.
Cascade of Regla. "Eyes of Water." Fires. The Hill of Knives. Obsidian
implements. Obsidian mines. The Stone-age. The loadstone-mountain
of Mexico. Unequal Civilization of the Aztecs. Silver and commerce of
Mexico. Effect of Protection-duties. Silver mines. The Aztec numerals.
CHAPTER V
.
A Revolution. Siege and Capitulation of Puebla. Military Statistics.
Highway-robbery. Reform in Mexico. The American war. Mexican
army. Our Lady of Guadalupe. Miracles. The rival Virgins. Sacred
lottery-ticket. Literature in Mexico. The clergy and their system of
Education in Mexico. The Holy Office. Indian Notions of Christianity.
CHAPTER VI
.
To Tezcuco. Indian Canoes. Sewer-canal. Water-snakes. Salt-lakes. A
storm on the lake. Glass-works. Casa Grande. Quarries. Stone
Hammers. Use of Bronze in stone-cutting in Mexico and Egypt. Prickly
Pears. Temple-pyramids of Teotihuacán. Sacrifice of Spaniards. Old
Mexico. Market of Antiquities. Police. Bull-dogs. Accumulation of
Alluvium. Tezcotzinco. Ancient baths and bridge. Salt and salt-pans.
Fried flies'-eggs. Water-pipes. Irrigation. Agriculture in Mexico.
History repeats itself.
CHAPTER VII
.
Horses and their training. Saddles and bits. The Courier. Leather
clothes. The Serape. The Rag-fair of Mexico, Thieves. Gourd
water-bottles. Ploughing. Travelling by Diligence. Indian carriers.
Mules. Breakfast. Bragadoccio. Robbers. Escort. Cuernavaca. Tropical
Vegetation. Sugar-cane. Temisco. Sugar-hacienda. Indian labourers.
The evensong. The Raya. Strength of the Indians. Xochicalco. Ruins of
the Pyramid. Sculptures. Common ornaments. The people of Mexico
and Central America. Their civilization. Pear-shaped heads. Miacatlán.
CHAPTER VIII
.
Cocoyotla. Indian labourers. Political Condition of the Indians. Indian
Village and huts. Cotton-spinning. The Indian Alcalde. Great Cave of
Cacahuamilpán. Optical phenomenon. Monk on horseback. Religion of
the Indians. Idols. Baptism by wholesale. Village amusements. Dancing.
Chalma. The meson and the convent. Church-dances. The miller's
daughter. Young friar. The Hill of Drums. Sacred cypress-tree. Oculan.
Change of climate. Grain-districts of Mexico. The Desierto.
Tenancingo. Toluca. Lerma. Robbers.
CHAPTER IX
.
Museum. Fate of Antiquities. War-God. Sacrificial Stone. Mexican
words naturalized in Europe, &c. Chamber of Horrors. Aztec Art.
Wooden Drums. Aztec Picture-writings. The "Man-flaying" Mr. Uhde's
Collection. Mr. Christy's Collection. Bones of Giants. Cortes' Armour.
Mexican Calendar-stone. Aztec Astronomy. Mongol Calendar.
Peculiarities of Aztec Civilization. The Prison at Mexico. No "Criminal
class." Prison-discipline. The Garotte. Mexican law-courts. Statistics.
The Compadrazgo. Leperos and Lepers. Lazoing the bull. Cockfighting.
Gambling. Monte. The fortunate Miners.
CHAPTER X
.
A travelling companion. Mexicans who live by their wits. Jackal-masks,
&c. Mexican words used in the United States. Miraflores.
Cotton-factory. Sacred Mount and Cypress-tree. Rainy Season. Ascent
of Popocatepetl. The Crater. View of Anahuac. Descent from
Popocatepetl. Plain of Puebla. Snow-blindness. Hospitable Shopkeeper.
Morality of Smuggling. Pyramid and Antiquities of Cholula. Hybrid
Legends of Mexico. Genuine Legends. Old-world analogies among the
Aztecs.
CHAPTER XI
.
Puebla. The Pasadizos. Revolutions in Mexico. Festival of Corpus
Christi. Mexican clergy. Their incomes and morals. Scourging.
Religion of the People. Anomalous constitution of the Republic. The
horse-bath. Debt-slaves or peons. Great fortunes in Mexico. Amozoque.
Spurs. Nopalucán. Orizaba. Robbers. Locusts. Indian village. Inroads
of Civilization. Lawsuits. Native Aristocracy. The vapour-bath. Scanty
population. Its explanation. Unhealthy habits. Epidemics. Intemperance.
Pineapples. Potrero. Negros. Mixed races. "Painted men."
CHAPTER XII
.
Barrancas. Indian trotting. Flowers. Armadillo. Fire-flies. Singular
Fandango. Epiphytes. The Junta. Indian Life. Decorative Art. Horses.
Jalapa. Anglo-Mexicans. Insect-life. Monte. Fate of Antonio. Scorpion.
White Negress. Cattle. Artificial lighting. Vera Cruz. Further Journey.
St. Thomas's. Voyage to England. Future destinies of Mexico.
APPENDIX.
I. The Manufacture of Obsidian Knives. II. On the Solar Eclipses
recorded in the Le Tellier MS. III. Table of Aztec roots. IV. Glossary.
V. Ancient Mexican mosaic work (in Mr. Christy's Collection). VI.
Dasent's Essay on
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