An Australian in China

Australian in China, by George Ernest Morrison

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Title: An Australian in China Being the Narrative of a Quiet Journey Across China to Burma
Author: George Ernest Morrison
Release Date: September 4, 2006 [EBook #19172]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
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* * * * * +------------------------------------------------------------+ | Transcriber's Note: | | | | Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in | | this text. For a complete list, please see the bottom of | | this document. | | | | Macrons are shown as [=o] and [=u] | | | +------------------------------------------------------------+
* * * * *
[Illustration: THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA.]
AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA
BEING THE NARRATIVE OF A QUIET JOURNEY ACROSS CHINA TO BURMA
BY GEORGE ERNEST MORRISON M.D. EDIN., F.R.G.S.
THIRD EDITION
LONDON: HORACE COX WINDSOR HOUSE, BREAM'S BUILDINGS E.C.
MDCCCCII
TO
JOHN CHIENE, M.D.,
F.R.C.S.E., F.R.S.E., ETC.,
PROFESSOR OF SURGERY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH,
WHO GAVE ME BACK THE POWER OF LOCOMOTION.
I GRATEFULLY
INSCRIBE THIS VOLUME.

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGES INTRODUCTORY--MAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY OF HANKOW 1-11
CHAPTER II.
FROM HANKOW TO WANHSIEN, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF CHINESE WOMEN AND THE RAPIDS OF THE YANGTSE 12-23
CHAPTER III.
THE CITY OF WANHSIEN, AND THE JOURNEY FROM WANHSIEN TO CHUNGKING 24-34
CHAPTER IV.
THE CITY OF CHUNGKING--THE CHINESE CUSTOMS--THE FAMOUS MONSIEUR HAAS, AND A FEW WORDS ON THE OPIUM FALLACY 35-49
CHAPTER V.
THE JOURNEY FROM CHUNGKING TO SUIFU--CHINESE INNS 50-62
CHAPTER VI.
THE CITY OF SUIFU--THE CHINA INLAND MISSION, WITH SOME GENERAL REMARKS ABOUT MISSIONARIES IN CHINA 63-75
CHAPTER VII.
SUIFU TO CHAOTONG, WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE PROVINCE OF YUNNAN--CHINESE PORTERS, POSTAL ARRANGEMENTS, AND BANKS 76-96
CHAPTER VIII.
THE CITY OF CHAOTONG, WITH SOME REMARKS ON ITS POVERTY, INFANTICIDE, SELLING FEMALE CHILDREN INTO SLAVERY, TORTURES, AND THE CHINESE INSENSIBILITY TO PAIN 97-106
CHAPTER IX.
MAINLY ABOUT CHINESE DOCTORS 107-114
CHAPTER X.
THE JOURNEY FROM CHAOTONG TO TONGCHUAN 115-124
CHAPTER XI.
THE CITY OF TONGCHUAN, WITH SOME REMARKS UPON INFANTICIDE 125-134
CHAPTER XII.
TONGCHUAN TO YUNNAN CITY 135-147
CHAPTER XIII.
AT YUNNAN CITY 148-157
CHAPTER XIV.
GOLD, BANKS, AND TELEGRAPHS IN YUNNAN 158-170
CHAPTER XV.
THE FRENCH MISSION AND THE ARSENAL IN YUNNAN CITY 171-182
CHAPTER XVI.
THE JOURNEY FROM YUNNAN CITY TO TALIFU 183-201
CHAPTER XVII.
THE CITY OF TALI--PRISONS--POISONING--PLAGUES AND MISSIONS 202-217
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE JOURNEY FROM TALI, WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE CHARACTER OF THE CANTONESE, CHINESE EMIGRANTS, CRETINS, AND WIFE-BEATING IN CHINA 218-232
CHAPTER XIX.
THE MEKONG AND SALWEEN RIVERS--HOW TO TRAVEL IN CHINA 233-243
CHAPTER XX.
THE CITY OF TENGYUEH--THE CELEBRATED WUNTHO SAWBWA--SHAN SOLDIERS 244-259
CHAPTER XXI.
THE SHAN TOWN OF SANTA, AND MANYUEN, THE SCENE OF CONSUL MARGARY'S MURDER 260-269
CHAPTER XXII.
CHINA AS A FIGHTING POWER--THE KACHINS--AND THE LAST STAGE INTO BHAMO 270-281
CHAPTER XXIII.
BHAMO, MANDALAY, RANGOON, AND CALCUTTA 282-291

ILLUSTRATIONS.
Mostly from Photographs by MR. C. JENSEN of the Imperial Chinese Telegraphs.
THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA Frontispiece.
THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE PASSPORT page 8
ON A BALCONY IN WESTERN CHINA 14
THE RIVER YANGTSE AT TUNG-LO-HSIA 34
MEMORIAL ARCHWAY AT THE FORT OF FU-TO-KUAN 34
CHUNGKING, FROM THE OPPOSITE BANK OF THE YANGTSE 38
A TEMPLE THEATRE IN CHUNGKING 44
ON THE MAIN ROAD TO SUIFU 52
CULTIVATION IN TERRACES 58
SCENE IN SZECHUEN 58
OPIUM-SMOKING 72
A TEMPLE IN SZECHUEN 84
LAOWATAN 84
THE OPIUM-SMOKER OF ROMANCE 93
PAGODA BY THE WAYSIDE, WESTERN CHINA 118
THE BIG EAST GATE OF YUNNAN CITY 146
VIEW IN YUNNAN CITY 156
SOLDIERS ON THE WALL OF YUNNAN CITY 168
THE PAGODA OF YUNNAN CITY, 250 FEET HIGH 174
THE VICEROY OF TWO PROVINCES 180
THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE NAME 182
THE GIANT OF YUNNAN 184
THE "EAGLE NEST BARRIER," ON THE ROAD TO TALIFU 192
SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAINS BEHIND TALIFU 204
MEMORIAL IN A TEMPLE NEAR TALIFU 220
THE DESCENT TO THE RIVER MEKONG 232
INSIDE VIEW OF A SUSPENSION BRIDGE 236
THE RIVER SALWEEN 240
THE RIVER SHWELI AND ITS SUSPENSION BRIDGE 242
THE SUBURB BEYOND THE SOUTH GATE OF TENGYUEH 250
CHINESE MAP OF CHUNGKING 292
ROUGH SKETCH-MAP OF CHINA AND BURMA at end.

AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY--MAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY OF HANKOW.
In the first week of February, 1894, I returned to Shanghai from Japan. It was my intention to go up the Yangtse River as far as Chungking, and then, dressed as a Chinese, to cross quietly over Western China, the Chinese Shan States, and Kachin Hills to the frontier of Burma. The ensuing narrative will tell how easily and pleasantly this journey, which a few years ago would have been regarded as a formidable undertaking, can now be done.
The journey was, of course, in no sense one of exploration; it consisted simply of a voyage of 1500 miles up the Yangtse River, followed by a quiet, though extended, excursion of another 1500 miles along the great overland highway into Burma, taken by one who spoke no Chinese, who had no interpreter or companion, who was unarmed,