American Notes | Page 7

day
before yesterday, being un-braked and driven absolutely regardless of
consequences), and you pull up somewhere at the back of the city on
the Pacific beach. Originally the cliffs and their approaches must have
been pretty, but they have been so carefully defiled with advertisements
that they are now one big blistered abomination. A hundred yards from
the shore stood a big rock covered with the carcasses of the sleek
sea-beasts, who roared and rolled and walloped in the spouting surges.
No bold man had painted the creatures sky-blue or advertised
news-papers on their backs, wherefore they did not match the landscape,
which was chiefly hoarding. Some day, perhaps, whatever sort of
government may obtain in this country will make a restoration of the
place and keep it clean and neat. At present the sovereign people, of
whom I have heard so much already, are vending cherries and painting
the virtues of "Little Bile Beans" all over it.
Night fell over the Pacific, and the white sea-fog whipped through the
streets, dimming the splendors of the electric lights. It is the use of this
city, her men and women folk, to parade between the hours of eight and
ten a certain street called Cairn Street, where the finest shops are
situated. Here the click of high heels on the pavement is loudest, here
the lights are brightest, and here the thunder of the traffic is most
overwhelming. I watched Young California, and saw that it was, at
least, expensively dressed, cheerful in manner, and self-asserting in
conversation. Also the women were very fair. Perhaps eighteen days
aboard ship had something to do with my unreserved admiration. The
maidens were of generous build, large, well groomed, and attired in
raiment that even to my inexperienced eyes must have cost much. Cairn
Street at nine o'clock levels all distinctions of rank as impartially as the
grave. Again and again I loitered at the heels of a couple of resplendent

beings, only to overhear, when I expected the level voice of culture, the
staccato "Sez he," "Sez I" that is the mark of the white servant-girl all
the world over.
This was depressing because, in spite of all that goes to the contrary,
fine feathers ought to make fine birds. There was wealth--unlimited
wealth--in the streets, but not an accent that would not have been dear
at fifty cents. Where-fore, revolving in my mind that these folk were
barbarians, I was presently enlightened and made aware that they also
were the heirs of all the ages, and civilized after all. There appeared
before me an affable stranger of prepossessing appearance, with a blue
and an innocent eye. Addressing me by name, he claimed to have met
me in New York, at the Windsor, and to this claim I gave a qualified
assent. I did not remember the fact, but since he was so certain of it,
why, then--I waited developments.
"And what did you think of Indiana when you came through?" was the
next question.
It revealed the mystery of previous acquaintance and one or two other
things. With reprehensible carelessness my friend of the light-blue eye
had looked up the name of his victim in the hotel register, and read
"Indiana" for India.
The provincialism with which I had cursed his people extended to
himself. He could not imagine an Englishman coming through the
States from west to east instead of by the regularly ordained route. My
fear was that in his delight in finding me so responsive he would make
remarks about New York and the Windsor which I could not
understand. And, indeed, he adventured in this direction once or twice,
asking me what I thought of such and such streets, which from his tone
I gathered to be anything but respectable. It is trying to talk unknown
New York in almost unknown San Francisco. But my friend was
merciful. He protested that I was one after his own heart, and pressed
upon me rare and curious drinks at more than one bar. These drinks I
accepted with gratitude, as also the cigars with which his pockets were
stored. He would show me the life of the city. Having no desire to
watch a weary old play again, I evaded the offer and received in lieu of
the devil's instruction much coarse flattery. Curiously constituted is the
soul of man. Knowing how and where this man lied, waiting idly for
the finale, I was distinctly conscious, as he bubbled compliments in my

ear, of soft thrills of gratified pride stealing from hat-rim to boot-heels.
I was wise, quoth he--anybody could see that with half an eye;
sagacious, versed in the ways of the world, an acquaintance to be
desired; one who had tasted the cup of life with discretion.
All this pleased