After The Storm | Page 4

and
Museums in Rome--Intolerance of the Catholic Christians--The Tiber and the
bridges--Character of the Romans--The Palazzi and Ville--Canova's
atelier--Theatricals--An execution in Rome.

CHAPTER XI
From Rome to Naples--Albano--Velletri--The Marshes--Terracina--Mola di
Gaeta--Capua--The streets of Naples--Monuments and Museums--Visit to Pompeii and
ascent to Vesuvius--Dangerous ventures--Puzzuoli and Baiae--Theatres at
Naples--Pulcinello--Return to Rome--Tivoli.

CHAPTER XII
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816
From Rome to Florence--Sismondi the historian--Reminiscences of
India--Lucca--Princess Elisa Baciqochi--Pisa--The Campo Santo--Leghorn-- Hebrews in
Leghorn--Lord Dillon--The story of a lost glove--From Florence to Lausanne by Milan,
Turin and across Mont Cenis--Lombardy in winter--The Hospice of Mont Cenis.



CHAPTER XIII

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PART III

CHAPTER XIII
MARCH-SEPTEMBER, 1817
Journey from Lausanne to Clermont-Ferrand--A wretched conveyance--The first dish of
frogs--Society in Clermont-Ferrand--General de Vergennes-- Cleansing the town--Return
to Lausanne--A zealous priest--Journey to Bern and back to Lausanne--Avenches--Lake
Morat--Lake Neufchatel--The Diet in Bern--Character of the Bernois--A beautiful
Milanese lady.

CHAPTER XIV
SEPTEMBER, 1817-APRIL, 1818
Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples--Residence at Naples--The
theatre of San Carlo--Rossini's operas--Gaming in Naples--The Lazzaroni--Public
writers--Carbonarism--Return to Rome--Christmas eve at Santa Maria Maggiore--Mme
Dionigi--Theatricals--Society in Rome--The papal government--Lucien Bonaparte, prince
of Canino--Louis Napoleon, ex-King of Holland--Pope Pius
VII--Thorwaldsen--Granet--The Holy Week in Rome--The Duchess of
Devonshire--From Rome to Florence by the Perugia road.

CHAPTER XV
APRIL-JULY, 1818
Journey from Florence to Pisa and from thence by the Appennines to
Genoa--Massa--Carrara--Genoa--Monuments and works of art--The Genoese--Return to
Florence--Journey from Florence through Bologna and Ferrara to Venice--Monument to
Ariosto in Ferrara--A description of Venice--Padua--Vicenza--Verona--Cremona--Return
to Milan--The Scala theatre--Verona again--From Verona to Innspruck.

CHAPTER XVI
JULY-SEPTEMBER, 1818

Innspruck--Tyrol and the Tyrolese--From Innspruck to Munich--Monuments and
churches--Theatricals--Journey from Munich to Vienna on a floss--Trouble with a
passport--Complicated system of Austrian money--Description of Vienna--The
Prater--The theatres--Schiller's Joan of Arc--A Kinderballet--The young Napoleon at
Schoenbrunn--Journey from Vienna to Prague.

CHAPTER XVII
SEPTEMBER, 1818-MARCH, 1819
The splendid city of Prague--The German expression, "To give the basket"-- Journey
from Prague to Dresden--Journey from Dresden to Berlin--A description of Berlin--The
Prussian Army--Theatricals--Peasants talk about Napoleon--Prussians and French should
be allies--Absurd policy of the English Tories--Journey from Berlin to Dresden--A
description of Dresden--The battle of Dresden in 1813--Clubs at Dresden--Theatricals--
German beds--Saxon scholars--The picture gallery--Tobacco an ally of
Legitimacy--Saxon women--Meissen--Unjust policy of Europe towards the King of
Saxony.

CHAPTER XVIII
MARCH-APRIL, 1819
Journey from Dresden to Leipzig--The University of Leipzig--Liberal spirit--The English
disliked in Saxony--The English Government hostile to liberty--Journey to
Frankfort--From Frankfort to Metz and Paris--A.F. Lemaître--Bon voyage to the
Allies--Return to England.
* * * * *

CHAPTER I
MAY-JUNE, 1815
Passage from Ceylon to England--Napoleon's return--Ostend--Bruges--Ghent-- The King
of France at Mass--Alost--Bruxelles--The Duke of Wellington very confident--Feelings
of the Belgians--Good conduct of British troops--Monuments in
Bruxelles--Theatricals--Genappe and Namur--Complaints against the Prussian
troops--Mons--Major-General Adam--Tournay--A French deserter--General Clinton's
division--Cavalry review--The Duke de Berri--Back to Bruxelles--Unjust opinions about
Napoleon and the French--Battle at Ligny--The day of Waterloo in Bruxelles--Visit to the

battlefield--Terrible condition of the wounded--Kindness of the Bruxellois.
BRUXELLES, May 1, 1815.
I proceed to the fulfilment of my promise, to give you from time to time the details of my
tour, and my reflections on the circumstances that occur at this momentous crisis.
To me, who have spent the greatest part of my life out of Europe, the whole scene is so
new that I am quite bewildered with it; and you will, I am afraid, as I write on the
impulse of the moment, find my ideas at times rather incoherently put together. What
changes have taken place in Europe within the last two years! and how great were those
which occurred during the interval of my passage from Ceylon last year, which island I
quitted about the time that we received in that part of the world intelligence of the battle
of Leipsic! Having had a long passage from distant Taprobane, it was only on my arrival
at the Cape of Good Hope, that I learned, to my utter astonishment, the news of the
capitulation of Paris to the allied powers, and of the overthrow of the power and dynasty
of Napoleon. I recollect that at the Cape there was great rejoicing and jubilee on this
occasion; but I confess, as to myself, I did not see any reason for giving vent to this
extravagant joy; and I must have had even at that time somehow or other a presentiment
of what would soon happen, as in communicating this intelligence to a friend in India I
made use of these words: "get a court dress made, my good friend, and a big wig, ruffled
shirt, and hair-powder, and stick an old-fashioned sword by your side, for, depend on it,
old fashions will come into play again; the most arbitrary and aristocratic notions will be
revived and terrible machinations will be framed against the liberties of Europe."
Of course at the Cape