Afghan Wars 1839-42 and 1878-80 | Page 6

the Herat road at Farrah on the river of that name, or at
Sabzawar on the Herat. The southernmost of the routes to Farrah also
branches from Kash down the river named Kash, joining the Seistan
route at Lash.
The general aspect of Afghanistan is that of a series of elevated
flat-bottomed valleys, in the vicinity of the streams, somewhat under
cultivation. The scenery is often wild and beautiful, and some of the
defiles to the north of the Hindu Kush are said to be of appalling
grandeur, while the soft, still loveliness of the sheltered glens on the
southern slope of that range strongly impresses the traveller who visits
them. Some of the ranges in the north and northeast are well timbered
with pine and oak.
The eastern half of Afghanistan is generally cold and rugged, but
sustains innumerable flocks and herds, and abounds in mineral wealth,
especially lead and sulphur. In the more sheltered valleys considerable
fruit is grown, but only grain enough for the actual consumption of the
inhabitants. Water and fodder abound, but fuel is deficient; a serious
matter, as the cold in the winter is extreme. The western part of
Afghanistan is a more fertile region, interspersed, it is true, with lofty
ranges, but comprising many pleasant valleys and pastures.
The population is approximately estimated at eight millions.
Afghanistan is a genuine society of different nations, although the
greater part are of Persian descent. The strongholds of the German
self-protecting federations are here produced on a large scale.
Thus the Duranis, Tajiks, Yusafzais, Ghilzais, Eimaks, Hazaris, Kaffirs,
Hindus, Jats, Arabs, Kizilbashis, Uzbeks, Biluchis, are near neighbors;
of these about 3,000,000 may be real Afghans who profess the Suni
faith and speak Indo-Persian Puchtu. There are over four hundred
inferior tribes known. The Duranis are numerically strongest and live in
the vicinity of Kandahar. Next in importance are the Ghilzais,
estimated at 30,000 fighting men living in the triangle--Kabul,
Jelalabad, Khelat-i-Ghilzai; until 1747 they furnished the rulers of
Afghanistan. To the south of the Ghilzais live the Puchtu-speaking
races who chiefly defend only their own territory; the mountainous

eastern border is inhabited by the Momunds, Afridis, Arakzais,
Zymukts, Waziris, who have never been subdued. Their sense of
independence, however, does not prevent them from selling their
friendship for ready money to the highest bidder. On the watershed of
the Helmund and Indus dwell the independent Pathans and Biluchis.
The Persian-speaking Kizilbashis in Kabul, comprise 3,000,000 of
Shiahs, who are not Afghans, many of whose 30,000 fighting men are
in the Ameer's regular army. The Tajiks-- about 10,000 men--are
chiefly in the Kabul and Ghazni districts. The Hazaris and Eimaks are
in the central section of Afghanistan, known as the Hazaristan,
extending east and west from the Koushan pass over the Hindu-Kush
range to Marchat on the Turcoman frontier, and north and south from
Sirpool in Turkestan to Girishk, between Kandahar and Herat; they are
the descendants of the military settlers left by the Tartar hordes that
swept Central Asia under Genghiz Khan, and still maintain a
quasi-independence; they cordially detest the Afghan Government, but
pay an annual tribute in money to its support. Finally there is a million
of foreign nationalities, including Turks, Persians, Indians, Armenians,
and Kaffirs; the last-named are Hindus, and violent antagonists of the
Mohammedans living around them.
[Illustration: Mahaz Khan (a Tajik), Khan of Pest Bolak. Jehandad
(Lohanir), from Ghazni.]
Thus it is seen that modern Afghanistan comprises three great
districts--Herat in the west, Kabul in the east, and Kandahar in the
centre, with the seat of government at the cities of the same names
respectively. Within each district are, as already described, a large
number of tribes occupying sub-districts, closely connected like the
cells of a honey-comb, but each with its destinctive manners and
customs and irregular military forces, in no instance numbering less
than 6,000 men, and often twice that number, divided about equally
into horse and foot. Many of these render military service to the Ameer,
many are bandits in the worst sense. The nomadic tribes--like the
Eimaks peopling the Heratic region--live principally in tents,
encamping in winter in the valleys, and in summer on the table-lands of
the mountain ranges. They are ignorant, hospitable, and brave and
ardent hunters. Their principal trade is with Herat, and consists of
woollen and camel-hair fabrics and clarified butter.

[Illustration: Wullie Mohammed, a Dahzungi Hazara. Pozai Khan, a
Shinwarri (Musician).]
The farming population all live in small hamlets. The better classes of
these live in villages surrounding or joined to the castle of a Khan.
These castles are encompassed by a rude wall, having frequently turrets
at the corners, and occasionally armed with swivel-guns or wall-pieces.
The principal gardens are always on the outside of the castle, and the
herds of horses and camels