Adventures in New Guinea | Page 8

At
present the plain is dry and hard, from the long drought, and very little
of anything green is to be seen. There are a few small gum-trees, and
great herds of wallabies were jumping about. The greater part of this
plain is under water in the wet seasons. We walked about ten miles in
an east-north-east direction, keeping the Astrolabe Range to our right,
when we came to the camp, close by a large river--the Laroki. Being

afraid of alligators, we preferred having water poured over us to
bathing in the river.
Our party was a tolerably large one--Ruatoka (the Port Moresby
teacher), some Port Moresby natives, and four Loyalty Island teachers,
on their way to East Cape. We did not see a strange native all the way.
We had our hammocks made fast in the bush by the river side, and
rested until three p.m., when we started for another part of the river
about seven miles off, in a south-east direction. Mr. Goldie also shifted
his camp. After sunset we reached the point where the river was to be
crossed, and there we meant to remain for the night.
We had a bath, then supper, and evening prayers; after which we slung
our hammocks to the trees, in which we rested well. It was a strangely
weird- looking sight, and the noises were of a strange kind--wallabies
leaping past, and strange birds overhead. Mr. Goldie's Mare men joined
with their countrymen, the teachers, in singing some of Sankey's hymns
in English. Soon sleep came, and all seemed quiet.
At three a.m. of the 26th we struck camp, and after morning prayers we
began to cross the river, which was not over four feet in the deepest
part. It was here Mr. Lawes crossed when he first visited the inland
tribes; so now, led by Ruatoka, we were on his track. The moon was
often hidden by dark clouds, so we had some difficulty in keeping to
the path. We pressed on, as we were anxious to get to a deserted village
which Mr. Goldie knew to breakfast. We reached the village about six,
and after we had partaken of breakfast we set off for the mountains.
When we had gone about four miles the road became more uneven.
Wallabies were not to be seen, and soon we were in a valley close by
the river, which we followed for a long way, and then began to ascend.
We climbed it under a burning sun, Ruatoka calling out, Tepiake,
tepiake, tepiake (Friends, friends, friends). Armed natives soon
appeared on the ridge, shouting, Misi Lao, Misi Lao. Ruatoka called
back, Misi Lao (Mr. Lawes), and all was right--spears were put away
and they came to meet us, escorting us to a sort of reception-room,
where we all squatted, glad to get in the shade from the sun. We were
now about 1100 feet above the sea level. We were surprised to see their

houses built on the highest tree-tops they could find on the top of the
ridge. One of the teachers remarked, "Queer fellows these; not only do
they live on the mountain tops, but they must select the highest trees
they can find for their houses." We were very soon friends; they
seemed at ease, some smoking tobacco, others chewing betel-nuts. I
changed my shirt, and when those near me saw my white skin they
raised a shout that soon brought the others round. Bartering soon
began--taro, sugar-cane, sweet yams, and water were got in exchange
for tobacco, beads, and cloth.
After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the next village, five
miles further along the ridge. Some of our party were too tired to
accompany us; they remained where we expected to camp for the night.
After walking some miles, we came unexpectedly on some natives. As
soon as they saw us they rushed for their spears, and seemed
determined to dispute our way. By a number of signs--touching our
chins with our right hands, etc.--they understood we were not foes, so
they soon became friendly. They had their faces blackened with soot,
plumbago, and gum, and then sprinkled over with white; their mouths
and teeth were in a terrible mess from chewing the betel-nut. On our
leaving them, they shouted on to the next village. An old man lay
outside on the platform of the next house we came to; he looked
terribly frightened as we approached him, but as, instead of injuring
him, we gave him a present, he soon rallied, and got us water to drink.
By-and-by a few gathered round. We understood them to say the most
of the people were away on the plains hunting for wallabies. One young
woman had a net over her shoulders and covering her breasts, as a