A Womans Journey through the Philippines | Page 4

anchored on such nights, or paced back and forth
upon his bridge, longing for electric lighted heavens that would not
play him such scurvy tricks.
And there were gray days, too, which only served to make more golden
the sun-kissed ones; days when no observations could be taken with the
sextant, to the huge disgust of the officer in charge of such work; days
when the distant mountains loomed spectre-like through the mist, their
sharp outlines vignetted into the sky. Occasionally the fog would lift a
bit, just enough to reveal the rain-drenched islands around us, and then
suddenly wipe them out of existence again, leaving the ship alone on a
gray and shoreless sea.
As for amusements, these were not lacking, what with reading, writing,

bag-punching, and playing games with the small girl while under way;
and when at anchor there was always shooting, hunting, and fishing for
the men, and for us all swimming off the ship's side. This last was often
done in shark-ridden waters, to the great disapproval of the ship's
officers, some of whom would stand on the well-deck, revolver in hand,
while more than once a swift bullet was sent shrilling over our heads at
some great fin rising out of the sea beyond. On our trip to and from
Bongao, one of the Tawi Tawi Islands, on a wrecking expedition to
save the launch Maud, stranded there on a coral reef, all the Signal
Corps officers were at liberty, too, which made life on the ship even
more agreeable, the delightful experience being again repeated on our
return trip to Manila from Pasacao, Luzon.
When one considers that the ship laid approximately five hundred knots
of cable, and travelled over three thousand knots on the trip, which
does not include the Bongao wrecking expedition, it will be seen how
difficult the work was, in that in every instance, save from Zamboanga,
Mindanao, to Sulu, on the island of Sulu, we had to make a preliminary
trip, sounding and taking observations, before the cable could be laid,
the Spanish charts being worse than unreliable. Then, too, a
government transport dragged our cable with her anchor at one place, a
fierce tropical storm wrecked it at another, while careless Moro trench
diggers bruised it with stones at a third, which meant many extra days
of work for the Signal Corps at each of these places, and for us idle
ones a continuation of pleasant experiences, the whole trip taking in all
three and a half months.
Three and a half months of ideal summer weather from the last of
December to the middle of April, and real summer weather at that, not
the sham midwinter summer of the tourist who has his photograph
taken attired in flannels and standing under a palm-tree in California,
Florida, or the Mediterranean, only to shiveringly resume his normal
attire as soon as possible. The Philippine winter climate is quite
different, what some one has defined as the climate of heaven, warmth
without heat and coolness without cold, when men sport linen or khaki
continuously, and women wear lawns and organdies throughout the
season, with a light wrap added thereto at night--if it chances to be

becoming.
In a few years it will be to these southern seas that the millionaire
brings his yacht for a winter cruise; it will be in these forests that he
hunts for wild boar and deer, or shoots woodcock, duck, snipe, pigeons,
and pheasants; in these waters that he fishes for the iridescent silver
beauties that here abound. It will be on these sunlit shores invalids
seeking health will find it, and here that huge sanitariums should be
built, for despite the tales of pessimistic travellers, no lovelier climate
exists than can be found in Philippine coast towns from the middle of
November until the last of March. After that it becomes unbearably hot,
and then one is in danger of all kinds of fevers or digestive troubles,
and should, if possible, go to Japan to get cooled off.
Of course, even during the Garden-of-Eden months, one must take the
same care of himself that he would in any country, and most of the
travellers who write against the Philippine climate have, according to
their own statements, lived most unhealthfully as regarded diet, shelter,
exposure, and the like. During the hot season itself one can get along
very comfortably in the Philippines, if he makes it a rule to live just as
he would at home, only at half speed, if I may so express it.
But aside from its possibilities for the leisure class, what a world of
interest the Philippines has in store for us from a governmental and
commercial standpoint! What a treasure-trove it will prove to the
historian, geographer, antiquarian, naturalist, geologist