A Winter Tour in South Africa | Page 2

arrangements--Trade--Harbour Works--The "Berea"--Natal Central Sugar Company's Manufactory--Trappist Establishment at Marion Hill--Defences--Embark for Port Elizabeth 85-96
PORT ELIZABETH.--Trade--Town Hall--Public Library--Ostrich Feathers--The "Hill"--Botanical Garden--Hospital--Water Supply--Churches--Presentation of an address 97-101
GRAHAMSTOWN.--Railway Journey--Scenery--Botanical Gardens--Mountain Road--Museum--The Prison--Kafir School--Ostrich Farm at Heatherton Towers--Export of Feathers 102-105
PORT ELIZABETH TO CAPE TOWN.--Scenery--Hex River Pass--Arrival at Cape Town--Lecture at Young Men's Christian Society--Start for England--Arrival at Southampton 106-108
CLIMATE. 109-112
THE NATIVE QUESTION. 113-116
RAILWAYS. 117-122
COLONISATION. 123-127
THE POLITICAL SITUATION. 128-148
APPENDIX:--
I. Discussion on a Paper entitled "A Winter Tour in South Africa," by Sir Frederick Young, at the Royal Colonial Institute 149-163
II. Lecture on Imperial Federation delivered at Cape Town 164-173

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THE VOYAGE.
On the 3rd of May last, I left Southampton in the s.s. Spartan for Cape Town. This three weeks' ocean voyage has become one of the most enjoyable it is possible to take by those who are seeking health or pleasure on the sea. The steamers of the great companies, which carry on so admirably the weekly communication between England and South Africa, are so powerful, handsome, and commodious, their captains and crews are so attentive and obliging, their food and cabin accommodation so ample and luxurious, that it seems impossible for anyone, excepting a confirmed grumbler, to find any reasonable fault with any of their arrangements, where all are so good. Passengers will select the particular vessel by which they desire to travel, rather by the convenience of the date fixed for sailing, than from any particular choice of the name of the steamer, either belonging to the Castle Mail Packet Company, the Union Steamship Company, or any other line.
A sea voyage of the kind I have recently taken does not give opportunity for much striking incident, or exciting variety. If restful and pleasant to those who are escaping for a while from the bustle and turmoil of life on shore, it is at all events bound to be somewhat monotonous, in spite of the many amusements which are daily arranged, including cricket, tennis, quoits, concerts, dances, etc., of which I experienced a fair share. On many occasions I was called upon to preside at concerts, lectures, etc., not only amongst the saloon passengers, but also in the third class cabin. A rough voyage across the Bay of Biscay, a view of the Tagus, a brief run on shore to look at the picturesque capital of Portugal, a gaze at the spot, which marks the memory of the scene of the fearful earthquake of 1755, which destroyed most of the town, and 50,000 of its inhabitants; a short stay at the lovely island of Madeira, sufficient to glance at its beautiful scenery, to breathe its balmy air, to taste its delicious fruits, and to land at its pretty town of Funchal, to see some of its charming surroundings; a passing peep at Teneriffe, which is now receiving so much attention in Europe as an attractive health resort; a few days' run of exhausting heat through the tropics; a visit to Saint Helena, enough to allow of a drive to Longwood, and a look at the room, where the first Napoleon breathed his last--leaving there the legacy of the shadow of a mighty name to all time--on this "lonely rock in the Atlantic"; a few days more of solitary sailing over a stormy sea, a daily look-out for whales, porpoises, dolphins, flying fish, sharks, and albatrosses; a glance upward, night after night, into the starry sky, to gaze on the Southern Cross, so much belauded, and yet so disappointing in its appearance, after the extravagant encomiums lavished on it; and at length, on the early morning of May 24, I safely reached Cape Town.
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CAPE TOWN.
To produce the most favourable impression of any new place, it is essential that it should be seen for the first time in fine weather. Places look so very different under a canopy of cloud, and, perhaps, a deluge of rain, or when they are bathed in the sunshine of a beautiful day. Happily for me, my first view of Cape Town was under the latter genial aspect. I need scarcely say, that I was, in consequence, quite charmed with my first sight of this celebrated town, the seat of Government of the Cape Colony. What made the scene more than usually striking to a traveller, fresh from the sea, was, that it was the Queen's birthday, and the day dawned with a most perfect specimen of "Queen's weather." Cape Town was literally _en f��te_. The inhabitants thronged the streets. I was astonished at the great variety of gay costumes among the motley crowd--English, Dutch, Germans and French, Malays, Indian Coolies, Kafirs, and Hottentots--a tremendous gathering, in fact, of all nations, and "all sorts and conditions of men." There was a grand review of all the military branches of the Service, in which His Excellency the Administrator,