A Wanderer in Venice

Wanderer in Venice, A

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Title: A Wanderer in Venice
Author: E.V. Lucas
Illustrator: Harry Morley
Release Date: September 17, 2005 [EBook #16705]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
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A WANDERER IN VENICE
BY E.V. LUCAS
WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY HARRY MORLEY AND THIRTY-TWO PHOTOGRAPHS FROM PAINTINGS AND A MAP
New York THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1914
All rights reserved
COPYRIGHT, 1914, BY THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.
Set up and electrotyped. Published November, 1914.
Norwood Press: Berwick & Smith Co., Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.

[Illustration: THE GRAND CANAL FROM THE STEPS OF S. MARIA DELLA SALUTE]

"In like manner I say, that had there bin an offer made unto me before I took my journey to Venice, eyther that foure of the richest manors of Somerset-shire (wherein I was borne) should be gratis bestowed upon me if I never saw Venice, or neither of them if I should see it; although certainly these manors would do me much more good in respect of a state of livelyhood to live in the world than the sight of Venice, yet notwithstanding I will ever say while I live, that the sight of Venice and her resplendent beauty, antiquities, and monuments, hath by many degrees more contented my minde, and satisfied my desires, than those foure Lordships could possibly have done."--THOMAS CORYAT.
[Illustration: A Bird's Eye View Of Venice]

PREFACE
For a detailed guide to Venice the reader must go elsewhere; all that I have done is invariably to mention those things that have most interested me, and, in the hope of being a useful companion, often a few more. But my chief wish (as always in this series) has been to create a taste.
For the history of Venice the reader must also go elsewhere, yet for the sake of clarity a little history has found its way even into these pages. To go to Venice without first knowing her story is a mistake, and doubly foolish because the city has been peculiarly fortunate in her chroniclers and eulogists. Mr. H.F. Brown stands first among the living, as Ruskin among the dead; but Ruskin is for the student patient under chastisement, whereas Mr. Brown's serenely human pages are for all. Of Mr. Howells' Venetian Life I have spoken more than once in this book; its truth and vivacity are a proof of how little the central Venice has altered, no matter what changes there may have been in government or how often campanili fall. The late Col. Hugh Douglas's Venice on Foot, if conscientiously followed, is such a key to a treasury of interest as no other city has ever possessed. To Mrs. Audrey Richardson's Doges of Venice I am greatly indebted, and Herr Baedeker has been here as elsewhere (in the Arab idiom) my father and my mother.
E.V.L.
_June, 1914._

CONTENTS
PAGE
PREFACE vii
CHAPTER I
THE BRIDE OF THE ADRIATIC 1
CHAPTER II
S. MARK'S. I: THE EXTERIOR 6
CHAPTER III
S. MARK'S. II: THE INTERIOR 17
CHAPTER IV
THE PIAZZA AND THE CAMPANILE 31
CHAPTER V
THE DOGES' PALACE. I: THE INTERIOR 46
CHAPTER VI
THE DOGES' PALACE. II: THE EXTERIOR 65
CHAPTER VII
THE PIAZZETTA 78
CHAPTER VIII
THE GRAND CANAL. I: FROM THE DOGANA TO THE PALAZZO REZZONICO, LOOKING TO THE LEFT 91
CHAPTER IX
THE GRAND CANAL. II: BROWNING AND WAGNER 100
CHAPTER X
THE GRAND CANAL. III: FROM THE RIO FOSCARI TO S. SIMEONE, LOOKING TO THE LEFT 110
CHAPTER XI
THE GRAND CANAL. IV: FROM THE STATION TO THE MOCENIGO PALACE, LOOKING TO THE LEFT 119
CHAPTER XII
THE GRAND CANAL. V: BYRON IN VENICE 130
CHAPTER XIII
THE GRAND CANAL. VI: FROM THE MOCENIGO PALACE TO THE MOLO, LOOKING TO THE LEFT 143
CHAPTER XIV
ISLAND AFTERNOONS' ENTERTAINMENTS. I: MURANO, BURANO AND TORCELLO 151
CHAPTER XV
ON FOOT. I: FROM THE PIAZZA TO SAN STEFANO 162
CHAPTER XVI
THE ACCADEMIA. I: TITIAN, TINTORETTO, AND PAUL VERONESE 168
CHAPTER XVII
THE ACCADEMIA. II: THE SANTA CROCE MIRACLES AND CARPACCIO 179
CHAPTER XVIII
THE ACCADEMIA. III: GIOVANNI BELLINI AND THE LATER PAINTERS 187
CHAPTER XIX
THE CANALE DI S. MARCO AND S. GIORGIO MAGGIORE 195
CHAPTER XX
ON FOOT. II: THREE CHURCHES AND CARPACCIO AGAIN 206
CHAPTER XXI
ON FOOT. III: THE MERCERIA AND THE RIALTO 217
CHAPTER XXII
S. ROCCO AND TINTORETTO 231
CHAPTER XXIII
THE FRARI AND TITIAN 245
CHAPTER XXIV
SS. GIOVANNI E PAOLO 254
CHAPTER XXV
S. ELENA AND THE LIDO 263
CHAPTER XXVI
ON FOOT. IV: FROM THE DOGAN TO S. SEBASTIANO 270
CHAPTER XXVII
CHURCHES HERE AND THERE 279
CHAPTER XXVIII
GIORGIONE 287
CHAPTER XXIX
ISLAND AFTERNOONS' ENTERTAINMENTS. II: S. LAZZARO AND CHIOGGIA 299

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
THE GRAND CANAL FROM THE STEPS OF S. MARIA DELLA SALUTE Frontispiece S. MARK'S FROM THE PIAZZA. THE MERCERIA CLOCK ON THE LEFT Facing page 10
THE CAMPANILE AND THE